If this is covered in the tech section or somewhere else on this board, please provide the link...
Getting ready to replace the intake/exhaust manifold gaskets. Got a small exhaust leak on a 75 1 barrel motor. Pulling them apart is easy enough, but getting those triangular washers back over the bottom row of studs looks like a pain. What's you favorite way of doing this, and getting the nuts on as well? Doing this in an A body... thought of installing the intake and exhaust bolted together and maybe using contact cement to glue the washers in place, but that might be too heavy to maneuver and try to line up the studs. Or maybe put the nut in a socket and tape the washer to the socket, just orienting it might be a pain. The two toughest ones have to be the middle two runners, underneath the choke and by the heat riser butterfly weight.

Triangle washers- use a magnet on a stick or some "mechanics fingers"--that long tool with a grabber on the end.

Nuts- use a socket in a long (or several) extensions. The hardest are the ones on either side of the exhaust manifold downturn. For the front one, you have to snake the extension behind the counterweight. On the rear one you have to dodge around the spring for the counterweight.

Good luck! Be ready to bend over and grope for the washers and nuts that fall to the ground...

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I put the triangle washer on an almost 90* curved 10 or 12 awg wire and gently shook it so it would slide onto the stud i was working on.
Lay a white t-shirt or rag under the one your on so if you miss, when they slide down the side of the engine it'll hit the rag and you'll be able to see it.

I used a piece of biege painters masking tape, sticky side out, inside the socket to hold the nut in place. I think the first 2, and last 2 i used a long handled nut driver.

I thread the washer onto a screwdriver and put the tip of the screwdriver on the end of the stud, then use a second screwdriver to push the washer onto the stud. Then I do roughly the same with the nut, but use the second driver to give the nut a couple turns to get it started.

Hope this helps,

Nat

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1970 four-door Dart, 225/A-904/2.45 gears. 0-60 in twenty three minutes!

I've had great success with the washer on a screwdriver method for washers.

I've been burned by the magnetic pickup tool method (magnet gravitates towards intake/exhaust flanges and any motion to compensate flicks washer off--this may be due to the fact that my pickup tool is crazy strong.)

I've had the best luck with the nuts by using my shallowest socket with my longest 3/8 drive extension. (multible extension offer less 'feel' and more play, as well as potential clearance issues with the inner bottom studs--i.e. the fat part where the extensions snap together)

I try to hold the extension tilted as much as possible so the socket/nut end is higher and the nut 'falls' into the socket, until the nut is in contact with the stud and can't possibly fall off. I then try get the nut/socket/extension concentric to the stud and spin the extension backwards (counter clockwise) like a screwdriver to 'feel' if the threads are aligning properly before switching direction to catch the threads.

(I hope to one day install my manifolds for the last time.)

I just went through this headache when installing my Dutra split manifold. I used the screwdriver method. But on the really hard one, for the second tool, I used my dipstick.

As for starting nuts, I found my 1/4 socket for half inch, and put some RTV goop on the inside of it. Then dropped in a nut. Some of the goop squirted out, so when I put the second nut in, it stuck in place. Then used a long 1/4 inch extension to start the nut. Once it was started, I pulled out the 3/8 sockets to finish them off.

I liked that idea about putting the wires there. Next time, I will give that a shot. As that screwdriver method does cause you to drop those things all the time.

And with me, I found working from the passenger easier. I am 6' 3", and don't mind leaning on the fender. But that let my eyes get closer to the target. I could see them easier that way.

Good luck, and make sure you tighten them in order. One at a time, in order.

Long skinny screw driver and a putty knife to slide them on.
Then a 1/4" drive with long extensions. Use brass Dorman nuts.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Really good boogers,or a touch of weather strip adheasive,have worked for me,mark

3M weatherstrip addesive(it's a contact cement).Glue the nut to the washer,when it's setup put a dab on the nut and glue it in the socket for the really hard to reach ones.The glue will break loose once you're turning the nut so it doesn't interfer with torquing them down.The left over will peel out of the socket and burn off the nuts/studs.Try it I swear it works and you don't have to swear at the parts

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

All of the above

I think thee are as many methods as there are users - this installation proves my point that these engines where assembled using Martian slave labor



REALLY there is no know reference how to do this which would imply people with crazy long thin fingers where used

From THIS I take it all Martians are octopus related

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

ROFL!!

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

Another trick for the lower washers is to loop a long piece of thread through the washer's hole, then pick up both ends of the thread so the washer hangs down. Then lower the washer down between manifold runners and use a screwdriver to guide it onto the stud.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.