Well, its come to this. I have a rod knock coming from number 5. I hate to do it since its a half a$$'ed way of doing things, but I am going to replace the rod bearings in the next couple of days. I'll check the journals with a micrometer to see if they are beat or not. I hate to do it like this, but I have no other options! The oil pressure is fine, so I rulled out mains, and its sometimes intermitent....like it will do it cold, warming up but not when its hot. Also, I can't hear it when its under load or decelerating, but its noticible at idle, out of gear. Can't get any noise when its in gear and try to rev it up either. Maybe early stages? Any advice before I dive into this (besides don't do it)?

how about "Restore" , that might help fill in worn area in bearings
and journal. that might buy you more time before having to
go into oil pan to change bearing.

If you have an automatic it might be a loose torque converter bolt

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Do you have a spare slant?

Id just dump in the best one in the pile (in my case thats the cast crank 30,000 mile truck one)

Personally the 2 times I tryed to fix a knocking motor with new con rod bearing s it didn t last long.......

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Tapping at idle but not revving up? Might be a wrist pin.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Eric,


Once you have ruled out the noisey knocking of the fuel pump, then rist pin or cracked piston.

When my oil filter plugged and starved the engine of oil all I got was some scratches in crank from the bearing gauling. I drove it a good twenty miles with 5 lbs to zero oil pressure before I could get to a parts store and spin on a new filter. Put on the new filter and instant 45 lbs oil pressure. I always use synthetic oil so not much harm done. Even with the first two rods burnt half way up their length it still ran, but had a light knock under load only let off and it went away. Start ups were noisey for a few seconds and then it was quiet again.

As you know I reground the crank .010 under, had it balanced, etc....and rebuilt the engine.

The SL6 is a darn tough motor. I would consider getting another block and rebuilding it instead of tearing this one down, then do a swap.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

are you sure its not piston slap? that will usually take up once things are warm.
my slant does exactly that,and has done so for the last 30,000 miles.
and - yes - it does sound like a rod to the untrained ear.
rods will usually be most noticable on load and deceleration,and when hot and the oil is thin.

my 2 cents.

regards,Rod

and 440_magnum wrote here a few months ago:





"FYI, that's technically not "piston slap." Piston slap is the unwanted noise caused by the piston switching over from pressing on one cylinder wall to pressing on the other cylinder wall as the crank passes through TDC. Piston slap sounds very much like the sound a diesel engine makes normally. Factory pistons have the connecting rod pin placed ever-so-slightly off center in order to reduce the sound, and also pistons are ground slightly oval to reduce it ("cam-ground" pistons). Short skirt pistons also make more piston slap noise than long skirt pistons because they rock side-to-side more, and hypereutectic pistons make more than cast pistons because they don't expand as much in the bore. Forged pistons make a lot of piston slap when cold, but expand significantly so they don't make the noise when hot.

Chevy/GM new car buyers raised a HUGE stink about the Gen-III smallblock GM engine having a lot of piston slap when GM went to hypereutectic pistons at the factory. There were threats of class-action, nasty GM-smearing websites set up talking about 'being afraid to take the truck on a long trip,' etc., but the truth of the matter is that piston slap is HARMLESS. It may sound God-awful to the uneducated ear, but there's really no damage agoing on in there. In fact, if I built a hypereutectic-piston engine that didn't piston slap at least a little when cold, I'd worry that the slugs might get *too* tight when the engine is pushed really hard. Its always a balancing act between having the pistons tight enough in the bores to be quiet and loose enough to never bind, and the balance is much narrower with pistons that don't expand much. "

Slant Six Dan commented on that article:
"Listen to what 440_Magnum says about piston slap. He knows what he's talking about. "

FWIW

Checked torque converter bolts last week, all where good. No spare engine, and no place to rebuild if I did. I got a stethiscope and poked around today, and found the noise the loudest down low, just in front of the starter. I also took off the belts and the engine sounded like a diesel. Crap... Time to take offers on the car. If this works, its gone.

Eric,

How about getting a long block from Evergreen in Spokane? I almost went that route on my rebuild. They put out some good motors and stand behind them. Doc had mentioned the folks in Spokane to me when my oil filter went south. Very nice folks......

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Ted, I'm on strike. No money. Even if I wasn't and could afford it (a few weekends is all), I wouldn't. Like I said, no place to do any major work like pulling engines.

Sorry to hear you have no space, maybe a friend or relative's house? It's hard to own an older car without any space to work on it.

You're STILL on strike? Man i'm glad i've never worked a union job, sounds like a pain.

Eric- Sorry to hear of your troubles. mi garage es su garage. If you need a place to do work you are welcome to do it at my place. I got all the tools you need, even an engine hoist and a tranny jack. I have no problem letting you park your Satellite at my place for a bit while you get the work done.

Anyone in the Seattle area want to throw together a slant for Eric like we did for Midi? I don't have any parts but I do have tools and a bit of space.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I've got a good cleanable rebuildable 66 block that I could give up. I would need someone to come and grab it though. Has crank, rods, cam, and pistons. Since the head on the Satellite is probably fine, just rebuild the block, slap that head on it, and away you go!

The block is a little rusty, but like I said, it just needs cleaned. It is standard bore as well.

Lemme know! I'm only a 3 hour drive from seattle!

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing