Kinda along the line of the other thread, except I'm already into it. I'm replacing the rear seal now. Sneaky Pet? Yeah, right. All it did for me was pull the upper seal out in chunks. What a pain....I still have pieces of seal up there, even after I loosened the mains and torque converter bolts so the crank drops down some. Any advice on that? I'm at my wits end and ready to call a moble mechanic to install it, cause I still have to torque down the mains, flex plate, oil pan needs installed and the center link of the steering linkage needs installed motor mounts need tightened down....alot of work! Help!

how about if you use the new seal to force out the remaining old seal by
pounding on new seal with wood dowel. or maybe small plastic tube
to push out old seal.

Piece of stiff wire and a pair of needle nose pliers? Maybe a section of coathanger slid into the seal channel? Bummer. These are annoying enough to replace with the motor on a stand, much less on your back, in the dark and rain under your car in a parking lot that doesn't allow car work.....

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I tried some soft aluminum rods to bang up there, but it gets to a certan spot and then the old rope seal kinda balls up or something. its also being forced out between the upper grove and out between the crank flange. The new seal is rubber and is stiff...don't know how to hit it up in there with a dowl. Crap. I may have to call a mobile mechanic to come put it in for me if I cant get it in the AM tomorrow. I'm doing it infront of my folks neighbors house, so it can stay awhile....But still!! Come on!

I had the same problem as you in the late 60's on a 1960 model Ford inline 6. The rope seal broke somewhere above the crank as I tried to pry it out. I was left with one end of the seal still visible. I screwed a #8-#10 wood srcew into the end of the seal left exposed, wrapped some bailing wire around the screw and fashioned a way to drag the thing out with the wire attached to a large screw driver turned sideways as a handle. Yes, I was laying on my back in the dark with no tools(to speak of) and I was 19 years old.

bwhitejr

_________________
'72 Duster (Performance 360)
'83 Ramcharger (Performance 318)
'80 TrailDuster (360)
'80 D-150 Truck (See Below)
CompCams 252S, Holley 390cfm, Offy manifold
Ported, Polished and Gasket Matched
P4286813 Springs,0.040 Overbore,
0.090 Shaved Head

They make a tool for that, but I don't know where to get one. It's a flexible rod with a sharp tip and several barbs like a fish hook. It has a T-handle that gives you a good grip on the tool.

I found this one. Probably Chinese crap, but at the price, if it works one time it's worth it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lisle-To ... .m20.l1116

Eric,I've got a seal remover tool around here somewhere.I'ts a flexable shaft with T handle and a "cork screw" tip.If you want it and I can find it and you can hang on let me know,it's yours.Mail from here would be like tomorrow in your hands.Freebee dude,like to help out a brother union man on strike.We used um in the pulp mill,works just like a wine cork screw only flexable. 360 928 2071 Lloyd

_________________
83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

Piece of steel and a grinder or a file if they are laying around-I always forget how handy a good file can be. Good luck

_________________
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3173/2992308402_5481afb26e_t.jpg">

My wifes 289 ford had a metal prong (in the middle of the seal) in the block. That was to hold the seal in place so that it couldn't spin with the crank.
Did Mopar do this also??

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Got it out. It took some time and patience, yelling, swearing, etc. I used the sneaky pete to pull it out, after driving a soft aluminum punch up and around the crank (following the radius of the block). I also used a .022" feeler guage and pounded that up and around. Finaly got a tool in to pull it out. No damage to the crank. For some reason, I couldn't get the seals offset, so I just put them in flush and slapped it together (after torqueing down the main caps of course). Thanks for the suggestions....If this is ever needed again, I'm paying somebody to do it. Of course, it would be easy now...