Well... it is not the most precise machining work I have done, but it worked. I set it up on a milling machine to get accurate location and depth of cut control.
DD

now that is the tooling i like to see,great work

Light weight wooden pistons!


I like the repair. Minds me of a conversation at Lous shop revolving around a top deck plate that held big bore liners(siamesed).....the bottom of the liner located by a similarly machined crankcase.

Keep it up Doug!....this will really weird out the Hemi Super Stock boys.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Ruh...wow! I have to admit, I wasn't expecting to see a hole saw involved! How did you ever find one that just happened to be exactly the right diameter?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

wooden piston have been done before, just that it works better if the top is topped with metal.

But wood doesn't take much abuse very well.

Cheers, Wizard

I have to admit, I was depressed just a few seconds ago, when I found the end of this thread... I want to see more!!!! The idea is ingenius, and I hope it runs for a real long time!

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Doc,

Will you need to mill the deck flat again or just use your sanding board to take the excess epoxy off?

Got a picture of the finished state?

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Doc,

Is the inside diameter of the iron repair rings an interferance fit against the iron cylinder liner?

Scott.

The ring repair worked as planned, all the rings seated on the machined shoulders and the epoxy has them bonded solid.

As for the ring fit, I would call it a tight, running fit for the first 3/8 of an inch, moving into a loose press fit for the last .100. the last .025 in a tighter interference fit as the ring seats. Said another way, the saw cut left some taper so the ring starts loose and gets tight as you push it on.

The waxed paper was well stuck to the surface once the plate was removed. lucky that I have a Peterson 50 surface grinder, that made fast work out of getting the waxed paper and excess epoxy off the surfaces.

This worked better then expected, not much epoxy shows along the seams as a result of a good fitment job between the rings and the machined shoulders. There is also a good size "bead" of epoxy along the bottom of the ring, filling the square corner created by the larger ring diameter on the smaller machined shoulder. It was smart to turn the glued assembly up-side-down once we had all the rings glued and the plate installed, that let all the extra epoxy settle at the joint instead of running down the sides of the cylinders.

Here are a couple of photos:
DD

I suspect that your iron ring/epoxy combination will be resistant to new corrosion. If your technique works out, this might be the way to build any AL block engine.

And now I'm curious: What does this mean in terms of head gasket selection? Any change from normal Aluminum-block practice?

(Still curious how you managed to find a hole saw of exactly precisely the right dimension).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hey Doc,

What was the doner material for the iron repair rings? Iron Pipe?

Scott.

I personally think that motor belongs in a 2438lb, chop topped 62 signet... MY OPINON, mark :wink:

And I thought that I was the only person crazy enough to mess around with these "fussy" aluminum block Slant motors.
DD

I got lucky on the saw size, a 3 7/8 (OD) leaves a 3.650 "core" and the outer iron liners in the block have a 3 5/8 OD. (3.625)
The saw cut did leave a thin "skin" of aluminum in a few places but most of that flaked-off with some "picking" and what did not come-off easily, I applied some muriatic acid to... and it quickly "bubbled away".

Once I had all the shoulders machined and clean, I measured each location and made the repair ring for that position. I fit checked each ring onto it's shoulder while it was still attached to the 5 inch length of iron pipe I had as raw stock, that gave me something to hold onto. (leverage)
Once the ring fit was right, I parted it off the pipe, engraved it with it's position number and went on to making the next ring. I have about 4 hours into making / fit checking the 6 rings.

The raw material is actually cast iron sleeve material from LA Sleeve, 4 inch OD X 3.5 inch ID.
DD