Someone was building one in Louisville KY for the turbo. Never heard where that was.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

the easiest way to do this is to make the headers out of whatever steel tube you want, and have them ceramic coated. One brand of this is HPC, but most powder coating shops can do the ceramic coating as well. I have bought several pairs of cheap headers for street cars, like through JCwhitney, for under 90 bucks, and then spent 200 bucks having them ceramic'd. It lasts a lifetime, never fades or rusts, can handle incredable temperatures, etc. Best money you can spend. It coats the inside and outside and can handle thousands of degrees of temperature. When I ran my turbo bike I had the chrome stripped off the pipes and re did them with ceramic. It's awsome; worth every penny.

Yep. When we do the headers for the Daytona they will get ceramic coated. Some things I only want to do once.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Are we calling these guys as well as discussing this topic to show our interest? For me, I would like to see a triple tri y set up that would run 1-5 3-6 2-4 stay close to the block, but with no sharp bends and go in to a 3 pipe collector and be at 32" at the collector flange. I would think a six in to one set up would be cool but a 3x2 will work as long as the price can beat our choices we have now.

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it's like a vw, sounds like a million miles an hour but goes really slow. (for now)

I'd think you'd want to group the cylinders that are 360 degrees apart....

1-6 / 2-5 / 3-4

If you were grouping 2 cylinders together.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I think if these guys are willing to make headers for us, we should try to keep it pretty simple.

Experimental "let's try this that's harder to build" sounds like a good idea for individuals to test on their own. I agree that grouping would have some benefits to tuning, but not big ones, and they will be much harder to make.

I will try to call them this week.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

lou, you ar correct about keeping it simple.

emsvitil you want the firing order to help each other. This is as was explained to me , the exhaust pulse from #1 will cause a vacuum and help pull #5's pulse as it enters the header thus speeding up the pulses, then 3-6 and 2-4 get the same treatment. Then with them all going into a three tube collectors the final pulse/fired cylinder(#4) helps the #1 pulse. With the correct collector length these "grouped" pulses pull/help each other out. Thats were info for the correct overall length 30" to 34" helps. Like I said "as explained to me."

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it's like a vw, sounds like a million miles an hour but goes really slow. (for now)

But then only half of the cylinders get the same help.

1 may help 5, but 5 won't help 1................. (same with other pairs)

Then 4 helping 1 (other similiar) would be of a different character because the tube lengths are different. The rpms would most likely be different, and the whole thing would be terribly difficult to tune with different lengths and rpms involved.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

this works on the firing order #5 is helped at the collector by #3. they are not paired (5&3) directly but at collector merging .

so it would go as this..........
1-5
5-3 at collector
3-6
6-2 at collector
2-4
4-1 at the collector
but one must make sure, and your right, that the tubes for each are the same length. As you go faster the vacuum increases. It would be a "rats nest" but necessary to make sure they are all X inchs long.

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it's like a vw, sounds like a million miles an hour but goes really slow. (for now)

Why guess at what works? Look at what was done for the V12 Formula One cars of years past and duplicate half of that.






There is a theme here.

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Joshua

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Joshua

I think that you will find that on a relatively low RPM turd like a Slant that header design really won't make a bunch of difference.

I have discussed this extensively with engine builders and header builders. There isn't as much power there as you would think.

Design the header so it fits the most body styles you can and is not a real nightmare to install.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

the beloved K.I.S.S. principle ! Lets keep it simple,clean,easy to install and hopefully cheap.

Ps Frank never returned my e-mail contact..

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63 valiant v200 Wagon 9.5, Schneider cam, E.I. 22 mpg all day

The cheap part will be the problem. Headers are a PITA to build, at least the first set is. Add on top of that, we are still a small volume market, but the numbers seem to be growing. We got almost 30 people in on the Offy valve cover buy. Last time we did one we had trouble getting 8 IIRC.

One other thing that will help is to make the primaries 1-1/2" or at the biggest 1-5/8". The 1-1/2" would be better for street cars and will help keep the cost down a little.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

1.5" primaries will work fine for any reasonable engine. At 37 cubes/cylinder, we don't need anything more.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988