I did this install this afternoon following slantsixdan's instructions to the letter. It runs great, smooth idle and nice power across the band.

But...the ammeter needle is running considerably higher then before the swap. In fact, with the headlights on and the engine at around 2500 rpm, the needle nearly pegs to the high side. Also, with accessories off and idling at around 750 to 800 rpm, it shows a slight discharge.

I realize that his may not be a problem (battery may have gotten low as I had to crank it a bit before I realized I had the pickup wires reversed), but it didn't do this before the swap (always stayed somewhere near the middle), so could I have missed something here? Stays centered with the key off. Does the HEI module draw that much more current then the Mopar ECU? Any ideas?

Thanks!
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Wrangler

You'll be drawing a little more current than with the Mopar ECU, but not much. You may want to drive it around awhile (or put a bench charger on the battery) and see if the behaviour settles down after awhile.

BTW, I have a surprise in the making for you and the other Canadian-built-slant-6 owners. No, it's not the decals you've already seen. No, I'm not telling til it's ready.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Still think there's a problem here. This morning the ammeter needle did drop back down a bit, but suddenly there's an oscillation back and forth in the needle, which is somewhat slow at idle, but becomes rapid as the rpm increases. It's hard to explain but the oscillation covers maybe 1/4" (if you can imagine the needle and guage). Never had this before. Otherwise, the car still runs fine.

I was wondering if the HEI install has somehow effected the voltage regulator (electronic) which looks old and was on the car before I got it? What else would cause this pulsing of the ammeter?
Thanks for responses!
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Rolls-Royce Corniche

I would indeed be looking at the voltage regulator as a prime suspect here. If replacing it (NAPA Echlin VR-1001, Standard-BlueStreak VR-128) and running a ground loop from alternator housing to voltage regulator base to battery negative tames the ammeter's behaviour, I'd call it coincidence and drive on.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan, I'm on it!
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starcraft II replays

Okay, I changed voltage regulator and here's what I got......

The ammeter needle still hunts (jerks) around at idle. What's new is that if I turn the headlights on at idle, the needle smooths out without much discharge. Or, if the lights are off at idle and I rev it up it will smooth out as well.

Also, except for right after starting the engine, the needle shows little in the way of charging (which I suppose is desirable). Sits pretty much dead center for maybe 10-15 seconds, then starts it's hunting thing.

To try and discribe the hunting (jerking) needle a bit better. it's like it goes up to about 10 amps charge, then gets jerked back to center. At idle (maybe 750rpm) it will do this about 2 or 3 times a second.

Any other ideas? Thanks!
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VAPIR OXYGEN

Hmmm, I'm wondering if maybe the brushes on the alternator are a problem. Just a shot in the dark, it wouldn't be related to the HEI conversion. I'd take a look at them anyway, maybe they are worn and / or spring tension is week.

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There are 3 things that will live forever, cockroaches, Keith Richards, and Slant Six Dusters !!!

http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/slantasaurus/

take a look around

I was getting around to thinking about that myself. I've never pulled the brushes in a Mopar alternator. This is a '73 with the two field connections. What's involved in checking the brushes?
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Ford Racing 3

Disconnect battery negative cable

Scrutinise the one screw holding each plastic brush holder to the rear housing of the alternator and see if it's philips, flat, or hex. Grab appropriate screw/nutdriver.

Pull one wire off each alternator field terminal. Unscrew each screw. Grasp terminal, remove together with plastic brush holder.

Examine brushes. If short and worn out, replace (though at that point it's likely other parts of the alternator require attention as well; how much of an "old veteran" is this alt you're using?).

I agree with Slantasaurus; this what you write about is probably not HEI-related, but coincidental. I've had cars with very difficult-to-calm charging system behaviour, too...seemed like no matter what I did, no matter which regulator I used or what alternator I put in or how well everything was grounded, there was always some flicker in the system, especially with little or no load. I've also had other cars with perfectly dead-smooth charging, even with stone-age original alternator and regulator and no ground loop. My '71 is one of the flickery ones, even with a brand new, not "remanufactured" alternator and likewise new regulator. At that point, the most likely culprit is high resistance in aged wires. Given the enormous improvement in how the car runs just by replacing the old fusible link with a new one, I am convinced it's time for a new engine bay wiring harness!

Sorry to get off topic and chattery...hung over from kidney stone pain meds

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Actually, in the last few days since I changed out the VR, the flicker (flicker-simple word but good description) has mellowed out a bit. It's still there, but...well, it's like your description that some cars will do it regardless of fixes.

I've decided not to worry about it. I will be changing out some of the old wiring where the connectors look a bit burned, and change the alternator (original, but looks pretty clean and turns smoothly without the belt attached) brushes, but I've decided any problems it might still have are minimul.

Thanks for all the help with this!!
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vapir no2