Today I was taking the cluster out to put a new speedo cable in and clean it up when one of the pins on the circuit board that connects to the wire harness broke off. The pins seem to be aluminum and are pressed in so I can't get solder to stick to it. Has anyone ever had this problem and repaired it before? I was thinking of just getting a tiny machine screw and putting it up through there to act like the pin and hope it makes a good enough connection. I really need some ideas.

Secondly, does anyone know how I would go about getting one of the little plastic bulb holders on the back of the cluster? One of the tabs broke off and I'd like to get another one if I could instead of taping the thing down.

Also how do I go about getting the correct speedo cable for my 71 Duster? I got a 71 Valiant cable from Napa and it's 40" which is way longer than the cable I have. They only have 20" and 40" cables, nothing in between. Does it read inaccurate if you put a longer cable on? I'm not really sure where to get the correct length. Thanks.

I have repaired those pins by sticking a small brad in through the back and then soldering it in.

I have gotten those sockets from the 'HELP' section at Vatozone or Pep Boys. NAPA may list them also. I'm pretty sure that Ma Mopar wasn't the only one that used them.

Are you getting the housing and everything from NAPA? Realistically, cable length shouldn't matter as long as you can route it w/o kinking it.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

This'll work if you can closely match the pin's original diameter.
Widely available. Standard-BlueStreak #S503A, NAPA-Echlin #LS-6501, ACDelco #LS132.
The '71s with 2-piece cable were the California cars with speed-related NOx emission control system. Do you have such a car, where there's one cable from the trans to the emission control box, and another from the box to the speedo? If so, now's a great time to bypass that widget and install a 1-piece cable. Try a NAPA Balkamp #615-1659 (68" long).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks for the help guys. I ended up grinding a screw down and putting the screw through the back of the circuit board. Then I soldered the wire connector to the screw. Apparently it didn't work because everything works other than the little red indicator for my brights. Oh well I guess thats the least important light in the cluster anyway.

Thanks Dan, I took your advice and just got the long cable. Took the widget out and everything works perfectly now. Now I used to have that NOx deal that connected to the distributor and carb. I disconnected that long ago and just ran a hose straight through. But what on earth does the emission control box on the speedo cable accomplish? I know the other one retarded the timing or something but I have no idea what it would do on the speedo cable.

Below a certain road speed, no vacuum spark advance. The widget in line with the speedo cable was a primitive kind of speed sensor.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Well I took it on the highway and it fixed maybe 10% of the problem. Looks like the bearing is shot in the speedo and I'll have to send it in sometime

Probably...the speedometer wasn't really designed or built to last forty years! I've had good results from:

DeLuxe Speedometer & Radio
1976 Bannock Street
Denver, CO, 80223
Ph# 303-629-6958

But you may also find good speedo service locally.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

In responce to the cluster harness. I know when I was having cluster problems, I pulled it out to do the 'regulator fix' to it. Now that I'm ready to put the cluster back its a pain to connect that harness. Sooo I thought, why not just solder wires where the pins are and make a homemade harness that's easier? -Dan

After a few days of the annoyance of not having the speedo working correctly, it actually seemed to work itself into place and works pretty well now. It still has a slight rattle that I can hear at higher speeds but at least it's accurate now. Once again, thanks for all the help. Another problem solved.