I was so excited to see I had a holley with the screw to adjust and it appeared to be not soldered up. My hopes were dashed as I found the screw would not move-period! I think its glued in! I have the usual off idle hesitation. Any way of getting that little bugger to move now that its chewed up?
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free vaporizer

Maybe some Kriol will help. It is much better the WD40.

Is this screw your loosening for the idle air bleed?

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Ted,

How about a full disclosure of what you have done to your Holley 1920 in one spot so we may duplicate your work. Mine still has some stumble from idle to accelerating and my air bleed is open.

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Grandpa's 1974 Dart Custom 4 door 225 auto, Aluminum Radiator, 1920 Holley.

Yes, the idle air/bleed. Mine is a 1920 with 6156 stamped on the raised part of the big square thingy. The bleed screw is located like the previous picture. The version where its closer to the square thingy just behind the big vent hose at the top of the square thingy. I'm guessing that the square thingy is the float bowl
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Falcon XR6 Turbo

Ok gentlemen,

Here you go.......
Currently the carb has been leaned out allot for mileage and my set up is as follows:

Specifications on the R7585 1920 Holley Economaster

On jet sizes, I am referring to the main fuel jet which is a #57 at this time.

Idle air bleed: .035 which is the same as a #65 drill bit.
The accelerator pump hole: .035 in diameter.
The idle mixture hole: .09375, 3/32 in diameter.

Idle mixture screw: 2 1/4 turns out set at 750 rpm out of gear at 18" vacuum. 16" in gear @ 600 rpm.

I installed some super long carb studs and am running a 3/8" phenolic spacer, then a .090 thick aluminum plate to act as a heat deflector and then the stock thick carb gasket. No heat soak issues at all in 80 to 90+ degree heat. Running cold air into the air cleaner snorkel from the front of the grill and the stock hot air system. I am also using water spray which kicks in after 2000 rpm, hooked up to the EGR control port half way up the side of the carb. It also has a .035 hole in it. The other end of the hose goes to a extra coolant overflow container with water. It basically sprays a fine mist right above the wagon wheel style venturi. At 2000 rpm it creates enough suction to draw the water out of the container.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks Ted, Water injection, my dad had one of the store bought kind on his 413 engined motorhome back in the '70s. Trying to get some more mpg from it. How dose it work on the slant? any better mieage? By the way this post has been going on awhile, gas is back down to $2.80 here.

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Grandpa's 1974 Dart Custom 4 door 225 auto, Aluminum Radiator, 1920 Holley.

MichaelS,

It seems to be worth a half mile per gallon minimum but in combination with additional timing. It puts out a dense spray above 2000 rpm which helps to create more power and allows me to step out of the gas a little more and run a little higher average vacuum readings over 2500 rpm. If I don't run it the mileage has dropped as much as one mpg.

The nice thing about it is that the engine stays allot cleaner and the idle is exceptional. No off-beat put, puffs........out the exhaust pipe.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

ok so im a little confused but i know its an easy fix. can you please label each "port" and un darken the rest of the pic?

http://u225.torque.net/cars/SL6/parts/1 ... _Bleed.jpg

i know the port to the far left (as looking at from the float bowl side) facing the center of the carb is the accel pump squirter. your saying this needs to be .035" or #65 bit. is that the "corrected" size? how deep does the roughly go in? 1/8"?

next "port" to the right facing up is the idle/low speed air bleed correct? now its a deep port as it goes down to the idle mixture screw. so it can be adjusted with the screw(if it has one) or by drilling out the lead/insert to .035"/#65 bit.( in the beginning he was saying up to a #61 bit,any gains from that?)

next one over is what the high speed air bleed? what does it do and what size should it be?

with these conquered did you have to play with PV spring or anything else other than jetting? is a 60 a good jet to start at after these above mods?

i read this and the other three links and have just been chewing on this info all day.

lastly my swinger 225 is getting 12mpg, was 8, did all the tune up as usual, NGK plugs, hot coil, valves, fuel line mod. all the norm. runs great, 18" idle P vacuum, perfect plugs, but now 12mpg lol... pressure tested and replaced rubber lines to make sure fuel wasn't falling on the ground...

anything would be great, ordering a carb kit so i can get in there and set it right...

EDIT: dizzy is set for 12 initial, 30 total, 45 with vac

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1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid

Mine was very close to that size stock. It just needed cleaning from some debris, so I used the #65
Yes. By letting more air thru the emulsion/mix is better. Idle is very steady.
The #61 was a little too big and caused a bog /hick up on transition off idle. You can go too far pretty quick. If you do, just peen the lead back and make the hole smaller. About the size of a clothing pin that come in new shirts.
Very small, leave it alone......
Yes, I shimmed up the power valve with up to 6 gaskets as shims so it kicked in a little slower and later.

#61.5 was my favorite for overall feel and mileage which came out of my Holley 1945 carb. Bigger jets up to a #64 work well depending on the size of the low speed air bleed. With the idle air bleed smaller you can jet down to #56 if your doing a lot of stop and go or short hops. For racing, I like the bigger #62 or #64 jet.

Your results may very drastically since I am using the Economaster version, not the stock 1920 Holley that you show in your picture.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

awesome thanks! where do you get all those PV gaskets?

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1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid

From the carb rebuild kits.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

so i did some checking and my carb has a #53 idle air bleed! would this cause my very poor mpg?

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1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid

Wow! I am surprised it runs......you must have the idle mixture screw out at least 4 turns if not more with that big of an idle air bleed.
I would say you went to far.....

1. Doesn't it stumble when you step on it?
2. Or do you have a huge jet like a #64 or bigger?
3. Or do you run about 16 degrees of initial timing?

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

stock carb, havnt opened it up yet as im short on the cash for the kit.

1. yes
2. IDK
3. 12 initial, 30 total, 45 vac

once i get the kit i'll get it squared away and then see where im at...

_________________
1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid

Hey gents.

I have the same setup as moparkid, very large and open idle air bleed. A 1/16 bit drops right in 5/32 will not. Even with a 612 jet it's almost undriveable at take off or low speed. Dropped a couple strands of wire down in bleed, and reset idle mixture and it made a very noticeable difference, runs much better.
My slants in a d100 and its my d.d. 40 miles one way to work, so mileage is a big concern, 4 speed o.d.
So I'm looking for an opinion on what size I should reduce my air bleed to for a heavy pick-up application? Should I go as small as Ted's economaster, or a little larger? This is just a standard 73 model 1920, on a stock very well used 225. Also opinion on jet size?

Thanks in advance.

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if it has breasts,wheels,or freon it requires constant attention.