My best guess: ram air flow into the snorkel creates pressure oscillations in the enclosed air cleaner, and therefore in the carburetor, upsetting the metering. Affects some kinds of carbs more than others.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My guzzi car,off the trailer,first time out,did a 14.20,with a couple flat spots,hood is open on top,and had a fancy open type air cleaner top on it,I changed the top of air cleaner to a solid one,,,,only change,, and went 13.91,No flat spots,rod bearing noise stopped further tuneing,In my opinion,forced air makes tuneing even harder,Guzzi mark

It's kind of like filling a milk jug with a hose, but each time a cylinder asks for some 'mix' it only take a scoop out of the jug....to be 'on' with ram air, you have to tune the diameter and length of intake runners to the size and length of the tube and rpm of the engine and only use it where it most helps... Also things to consider in design... any ribbing in the intake tube decreases the diameter of the intake tube as you have some turbulence at the walls of the pipe not helping flow (all the 'straight' flow is in the middle away from the walls....), any bend in the intake tube causes enough resistance to act like a longer piece of straight pipe (for us HVAC guys a 90 degree elbow is worth about 10' of straight duct of the same dimension)... your intake opening should be roughly at least 1.4-1.5 times the square inch dimension of the tube it's feeding ... lastly for best 'transition' of air from the opening to the tube, make sure the walls are 15 degrees of angle... 30 degrees at a worst case scenario... anything else just crams the air into a funnel necking down the actual intake of air....


OK time to step away from the desk and stop thinking about work....

-D.Idiot

With all this in mind, you then have to dial in your carb jetting and timing to match the intake of added air at that right time (most 'classic' cars with 'timed' ram air only opened the scoop flaps at low vacc./WOT... others just fattened up the jetting a bit for the constant rush of incoming air at high speeds....)

It's only the wing nut holding it all on, which made me nervous. There's not much weight there really, the aluminium tube is pretty thin and the pod filter is pretty light.
Yeah once I get a hold of a complete 4BBL air cleaner with the right filter element I'll be set. Until then I'll keep using the open element one.

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62 Valiant, 225cid Slant 6/PB 904 with lots of good bits

http://www.moparmarket.com/readersrides ... user=SV162

what do you mean by lpg hat? you mean filter cap right? i googled, but couldn't find anything that looked anything like the one you used?

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What's that fuzzy blue thing being hurled this way?
::stick::
BOOSH!!!

So that's why I blew a freeze plug! Damn ham sandwich eating spiders!!!!

LOL

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Hey SV162,

I have an aircleaner that works pretty well on the Offy with a 4bbl, as long as there is no carb spacer.

It's off a mid 70's 4 bbl Ford wagon. The engine was a 460. One of the Fire Fighters in my Department Harvested the engine for his pickup to replace a hydro'd 7.3.

The snorkel goes right over the valve cover, and aims to the area behind the alternator. A little massaging of the inside to the base was needed, but it worked just fine up till I poked the carb out through the hood.

CJ

This is what it looked like when I got it. On the underside of the air filter is an LPG mixer, these are used for running a carbureted engine on lpg and petrol(or gas in US talk)

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62 Valiant, 225cid Slant 6/PB 904 with lots of good bits

http://www.moparmarket.com/readersrides ... user=SV162

I was looking to do something very similar to Aggressive Ted's set up, but with a dual snorkel. Looks like I will need to do some more research...

I'll throw in my $.02 for not liking cone filters on old cars, but to each his own. That's why I drive a MoPar.

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Aggressive Ted, i really dig your car. your engine just looks real good inside that yellow engine bay.

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What's that fuzzy blue thing being hurled this way?
::stick::
BOOSH!!!

Yall did not even ask me you just gessed or thought what Dan said. Hell I have research and test results, dyno results and race results. one barrel setups, two barrel setups, supersix setups four barrel setups race carb setups . cold air induction, scoop induction, preasurized induction and all the my test data. what works and what doint. 12 years worth. Yall have fun. Thanks Possum







Any More Bees Want To Get Smoked

How do I get all these results? I will not live anouther 10 years,or I MIGHT figure it out myself ,hopefully got a couple left,PLEASE SHARE,Guzzi Mark

Please Mr. Possum?



It would be great to get some of the data!

CJ

Mr. Ron Parker,

Anything wrong with my 74 Dart setup Midi posted?

Are there other air intake improvements that I could have made? It is very close to stock except I am pulling air from behind the grill.

So far I am not disappointed, just looking for the maximum benefit.

Thanks,

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Karasik87,

Thanks!

When the engine was out I painted the bay with PPG's Competition Yellow.
I was thinking of painting the car that color. Still keeping the top black. It is not too bright, and has a nice creamy warmth. Interior is black.

The engine and running gear is all brand new, except the tranny. It has 392,000 miles on it and is still going strong. Tranny fluid is super clean!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG