Nope, not by me anyhow.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I will not be at MATS but I will be at PRI. If you are talking about Brian Nutter, he will be at SEMA with me. If you send me an e-mail, I will deliver it to him.

I wont be at SEMA....Im more the World Camping Congress type.....same idea.

www.arrowtipi.com .....not automotive

You guys are well regarded here (not an easy crowd)

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Looks like I should be ordering mine next week......have half the $, and am doing a side job this Friday/Saturday to get some more......so hope to get it all ordered and on the way!!!
Andrew/Kidd

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Wife's: 64 Valiant
My: 70 Road Runner, 67 Barracuda, AND the 62 Valiant drag car!!

I just got my set. They look VERY nice. Drool. Still need to weigh them to confirm their excellent claims...

I hope to get an engine build going on these very soon. I will be shooting for 280-300 HP NA with a redline of 62-6400 RPM.

One thing I noticed is that there are no oil the spurt holes drilled in the big end of the rod. Not sure if they just missed this detail, or decided this was not necessary??

Thanks again to Brian and Tom for great work on these pieces!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Lou, I did send Tom a rod and piston from the slant I tore down. I'll see if I can contact him and ask.

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it's like a vw, sounds like a million miles an hour but goes really slow. (for now)

"One thing I noticed is that there are no oil the spurt holes drilled in the big end of the rod"

Doesn't appear to be one in mopardemon71's PICs, either.

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obliquely-inclined state of mind

I think this is a good thing, I have seen a number of broken con rods that split apart right at the oil spurt hole.

Truth is, the SL6 oil spurt holes on the forged crank con rods are not in the correct location for cooling the pistons, when installed pointed to the cam. Later cast crank con rods have the hole in a better location.

For true race engines, you do not want to throw a bunch of oil all around the engine's bottom end, it is better to direct it to where the oil really needs to be... cooling the piston and lubeing the bearings. The best approach I have seen are special "oilers" that spray a stream of oil right up and onto the bottom of the piston's head, this helps to cool it.

If I get my hands on a new K1 con rod, I can do the lay-out work needed for correct oil spurt hole placement and give that lay-out to Tom at K1. Hopefully, the hole can be placed in a way that uses the current hole in the forged crank rod bearings.
DD

OK, I was hoping you would say that, Doug. I agree it probably doesn't make a difference.

I would be happy to send you one of the rods to inspect.

Do V8 rods tend to have spurt holes like these?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

No, they have a little "cut" if you will where the cap and rod meet.

Got my pistons today,Very impressed,rods should be here tomorrow,now I have to get my motor the rest of the way together for my A 100 truck,then tear apart Guzzi motor and patch it back together with higher oil pressure,Then I will start a build with this new rod,piston combo,,,,In between I will be chopping roof on the A 100,will be used as a tow truck for my chopped 62 Valiant,so its gotta be chopped also,The sickness spreads,Hope I dont meet a chick and fall in love for at least a few months,will take away from my slant time,Celebet Mark

Mark, Hope the chopping and building goes well. 6 mo and you can start hunting for a mate again... Wish I coulda seen the car run! Maybe next year.

I weighed the rods/piston kit last night, and some stock stuff.

Complete rod (w/bolts), piston, pin, locks, rings (no bearing shells):

1) K1/Wiseco deal - 1216 g
2) Stock 225 (forged crank) - 1418 g
3) Stock 225 (cast crank) - 1342 g

This is a huge savings - 2.6 lbs of recip mass from a stock 225 (which is what all my motors have been so far).

I noticed the spurt holes on the cast crank stock stuff were more like what Doug was describing - no removed material in a critical strength area of the rod and better aim at the back of the piston. Stock cast crank rods actually look thicker in the plane of the rod in good areas to compensate for the lack of width the early rods have.

Of course, the K1 rods and Wiseco pistons look like beefy artwork next to either stock setup!

I'll see how the spurt hole discussion goes, but I'm prepared to run these without that.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Hi Lou,

Sorry to take so long getting back to you but I am at the SEMA show and I did not have Internet access for a couple of days.

We do not normally put the oil spurt hole in any rods and have never heard of any problems from leaving it out. I would also not recommend putting one in as this can cause a stress riser which could develop into a crack and ultimately, engine failure.

Tom

Sounds good to me, Tom. Thanks for weighing in, and of course, thanks for producing these very nice parts!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Two questions for K1tom;What is the max RPM you'd recommend for your rods and the Wiseco pistons . Also how much valve lift can I run assuming unmilled head and block?

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V8?? We don't need no stink'n V8!!