Can anyone tell me something about this cam please

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

The Engle KV-1 profile is a maximum rate of lift design for .904" diameter solid lifters. This means that the rate of lift and maximum lift will be higher than cams of a similar duration that can be used with smaller diameter lifters typical of Chevy & Ford. This limitation does not apply with roller lifters. KV-1 specs are 269 degrees duraton at .020 lift, and 239 degrees at .050 lift. The lift at the cam is .364" which translates to .546" at the valve before allowing for valve lash with 1.5 ratio rocker arms. The lobe separation angle can be specified by the buyer.
I have used vaious combinations of Engle profiles KV-3, 4, & 5 in my drag race car with good results. Those grinds have durations at .050 of 253, 256, and 266 degrees and lifts at the cam of .383, 388, and .401 resepctively. I specify lobe seperation angles of 104 to 106 degrees and install the cam about 4 degrees advanced.
I have not used KV-1 but would expect it to make good power between 3500 and 5500 RPM and require a fairly loose high stall converter with an automatic. In my opinion these cams are questionable for the street although I am sure you could probably get away with it for occasional use. The same factors that allow the high rates of lift are going to aggrivate the wear issues you always have with aggressive flat tappet cams. For a purely street driven car I would stay with a Chevy type lobe and sacrifice a small amount of performance for more reliability.

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

Mr. Exner is right on the money. KV-1 is a stout street/strip cam. You will need a 3000 stall converter or a stick, and 10:1 comp to use it properly.

I have a regrind "chevy lobe" cam in my street driver '64 Dart with similar numbers and it has 50k miles on it with no wear issues.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I know this is an old post but it's relevant regarding cam choice for me. I was reading about this cam and I'm interested in this type of snarl in my street driven car. What is meant by applying a chevy type lobe to your cam with the same numbers? I have no problem going with a 3k stall and you say you've got 50k street driven miles on it? That sounds incredible in terms of longevity. Can I use this cam and the hyperpak?

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1966 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 2dr sedan
1966 Plymouth Belvedere II 2dr hdtp
Both slant 6 cars

Oregon Cams can regrind you a similar cam on a stock cam core. I can look up the proper numbers and post on your original thread if you like.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

That would be great. Thank you Lou. How do you like this cam choice? Dare I ask what your favorite cam choice is for street strip, turbo and nitrous?

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1966 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 2dr sedan
1966 Plymouth Belvedere II 2dr hdtp
Both slant 6 cars

Hi guys. I hope everyone is well. Been gathering parts. I'm ready to order my cam. I have my manifold, fitech injection unit, bouchillon cable and bracket kit, remflex manifold gasket and headers. I'm almost ready to pull the head and send it to the machine shop and send my cam to Oregon cam grinders..

So my first question is:

Where do I get the oversize valves from and exactly what size or part number?

My second question is two part and is directed first at Lou and then anyone else that can help shed light on the cam selection process.

What are the cam specs that you mention above with the specs similar to the to the KV-1 and the chevy type lobes? It sounds like you were fairly happy with it.

I'm putting nitrous on it so I want to make sure the cam I select works with the nitrous as well. I know there are qualities that nitrous prefers. I'm just not sure how to figure out how to get there.

I want an aggressive sounding lumpy cam. With the FITECH FI unit they recommend not going below 110 lobe separation (did I phrase and use that right?)

I really don't understand how to tweak the different numbers to get to the desired end goal and would really appreciate a simple explanation that I can use figure this or on my own.

Would love some cam recommendations and the rationale behind the choice. Would slap love to know what personally is working for you.

To recap where I'm at, I'm shooting for 10:1 compression, running it on super with a can of octane booster, gearing depends on what I find. Would like to swap in an 8.8 ford rear. They come with 3.27, 3:55 (which if I found I may use the stock trans as well with a shift kit and 3k stall speed converter out 3:73 and 4:10 which if I find I'll go with an OD trans. I'm wondering if 4:10 is too hi. Will my engine run out of gear. Bottom end is stock for now so 5k -5500 is my max rpm.

Also what is ideal manifold temperature to avoid the cold weather issues and atomization problems? I'm trying an electric heating pad directly under the carb floor.

This is a street car but I still want it to have a bad attitude and a little bit of gas mileage though I'm not overly concerned with mileage. I want it to sound and appear to be a race car while being a safe and reliable street car.

Thank you in advance.

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1966 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 2dr sedan
1966 Plymouth Belvedere II 2dr hdtp
Both slant 6 cars

Bill,

Can you please re-post this under your "Cam Selection" post so it is easy to find the thread with all exchanges later? Then I will give my answers some or hopefully all of your questions. The thing that makes me most uneasy is FITECH's recommendation of 110 LSA.

Thanks,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988