Im going to rebuild a 904 in the next week or so, and I was wondering, what rebuild kit should I use? What should I replace? Im also going to get a trans go shift kit and I was wondering what kit would be the best for a daily driver?

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

Master kits typically come with new clutch discs, bands, seals, and gaskets. Not to mention a filter as well. They do not always come with snap rings, and I would recommend replacing them, however, if you are nice to them when taking them out, you can probably get away with reusing them.

You can buy a master kit for that trans almost anywhere. I am sure there are others here who have insight as to what kit to buy. Since I haven't rebuilt an auto in awhile, I don't remember the good brands to get.

When you have the trans apart, make sure you have a factory service manual handy for instructions. They even have nice pictures!

When the planetaries are pulled, do yourself a favor and check them thoroughly, this includes taking a feeler gauge to the pinion gears, and making sure they are within factory spec for clearance, and that there is as close to .000 clearance difference between all 4 of the pinions. There will be 2 planetaries. Do this to both.

Make sure not to get ahead of the manual, and keep the workspace clean and orderly. This is something that has bitten me more in the past than anything else.

Have fun!

~THOR~

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Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
Too young to be slow, too old for high speed.

Well, Im not going to be the one rebuilding it, someone we know is. Hes done several before, and so far no probs. He done these trans before. Ill be sure to let him know the info though.

I went ahead and got that trans pan gasket from the dealer, so hopefully no leaks in the new trans.

I will have an extra trans on hand, so maybe Ill give it a shot...

I have to order that trans shift kit this week, so what one should I get? The TF-1 or the TF-2?

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

I think most would agree with me... get the TF-2.

~THOR~

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Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
Too young to be slow, too old for high speed.

My pref would be for the TF-1 on a daily driven car. But this is a matter of personal preference.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Whats the main difference between the two? Whats "Full Race Shifts" and "Street Use"?

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

Comfort.

if you are driving the vehicle daily, the increase in firmness of the full race kit will be uncomfortable and irritating and not worth the slight added benefit of full race shift transitioning. i do not want my car to bang harshly from one gear to the next unless it will add significant life to my transmission, and it won't. it will only improve my 1/4 mile times. the street shift kit will eliminate enough slip to add life to your clutch facings without excessively loud and irritating shift transitions.

if your only goal is extending your transmission's life, you can do so without a shift kit at all by releasing the throttle at shift time. shifting into neutral while stopped will also reduce fluid temperature, especially in traffic jams and railway crossings.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Can you drive daily with the full race kit?

I usually shift into neutral when stopped anyway, it seems to like that better.

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

TF-1 for me,line pressure is increased about 30% so the trans will shift 30% firmer and clutches will be lock in 30% tighter.Also lubrication pressure will be nearly doubled improving cooling and trans life.For $25 It,s hard to beat.

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V8?? We don't need no stink'n V8!!

Full-race shift kits are like loud exhausts: Fun on a daily driver for about a week, and then they get old in a big hurry.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

no, pointlessly increasing pressure in any hydraulic system will only make the oil run hotter and break-down the additives and viscosity modifiers faster.

when using a larger engine oil pump it is recommended you also loosen your main bearing tolerances so that added volume of oil actually goes through your bearings instead of just peeing-out of the relief valve. when the oil is forced through the relief valve it heats up and shears. the point of increasing lubrication pressure for racing purposes is that it makes it more difficult for the moving parts to squash the film of oil and come into contact with each other during hard launches. in day-to-day traffic this just wastes energy. you will put your car into a phone pole before you see any benefit to increased trans lub. pressure on the street.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

$25 bucks, where did you get yours? Its $43.95 at Summit.

Im going for the TF-1 then, I don't want to do somthing I will regret.

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

A&A trans for the shift kit,just checked the price,now it,s 29.95. Also, the torque converter and trans cooler are in series with the lubrication circuit so when you double pressure,it increases oil flow and cooling.

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V8?? We don't need no stink'n V8!!

no, it increases stress on the cooler and converter, and all the seals and hoses. it will only reduce wear on the hard parts of the transmission if you bag-drive your car all the time. on a street car, it will wear out your transmission faster, and make it run hotter.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Well, the part #s at summit and A&A are different. Summit is TRG-TF-1 and A&A is AATF-1. Are they the same kit?

Also, would it be ok for me to get an external trans cooler?

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels