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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 12:50 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Apr 26, 2008 4:44 pm
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Location: salem oregon
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well THOR came up with an idea. I'm going to try changing the ballast resistor. ill take it off Sunday and give it a shot (along with setting it in time correctly) also it looks like I'm going to be using my bookmark for doing the fuel line mod. the brass fitting that threads into the carb broke today. my guess is i goofed and tightened to hard or something and it snapped in half when i went to take it out today (didn't break until it was loose) so anyway got a few things to do this weekend/Monday and hopefully have it going by Tuesday/Wednesday at the latest.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 12:44 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
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Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model: 1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Quote:
do not crank your engine more than five to ten seconds at a time. if it does not start, it will not start until you find out why. if you cannot resist cranking and cranking for minutes at a time, pull the plugs because the engine is flooded (if you are getting fuel) and won't start even if you repair the problem.

static timing the engine is not adequate for a final setting. you should not have disturbed the distributor without one at the ready. you guys need to slow down and plan your work through. get a timing light, and a multimeter, now. we will teach you how to use them if need be.
I removed the dizzy because we weren't getting spark. Removed the cap, and the rotor was not spinning with the engine. Removed the dizzy, and saw that the gear was gone. Check down in the hole, sure enough there were chunks of dizzy gear all over. I dug up another points dizzy to stick in there, set the gap to .019", and now we have reliable spark timing... just not enough spark. The timing set was replaced correctly.

The car has spark and plenty of fuel. The engine sound just like it should when it is cranking, it just doens't go. There are times when it thinks about it, which leads me to believe that the saprk isnt hot enough to fire reliably.

Coil is new BTW....

We'll see if the ballast does it.

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
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President - Cherry City Bombers CC
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 12:56 pm 
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Since the ballast resistor is bypassed during engine cranking, it seems very unlikely that's going to solve the problem. Look for faulty wiring in the ignition circuit. You can very easily test for this: run a test lead from battery positive or alternator B+ to the coil +, then arc the starter with a screwdriver. If the engine starts and runs, find and fix the wiring faults.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 2:09 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
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Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model: 1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Quote:
Since the ballast resistor is bypassed during engine cranking, it seems very unlikely that's going to solve the problem. Look for faulty wiring in the ignition circuit. You can very easily test for this: run a test lead from battery positive or alternator B+ to the coil +, then arc the starter with a screwdriver. If the engine starts and runs, find and fix the wiring faults.
Will do. Spark seems weak during crank.... just seems off that it would wait until we redid the timing set to show up.

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 2:39 pm 
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Weak spark relative to distributor rotative position is usually down to a frayed primary wire (coil to points, or points to condenser) which moves/flexes when you grab and twist the distributor, such that it partially shorts or the broken strands pull apart from one another. How 'bout a new primary wire from coil to points as a start?

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 3:20 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
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i wonder how that distributor gear got chewed up all of a sudden.

if the positive and negative leads to the coil are wired backwards, the coil will fire very weakly because the primary and secondary coils are doing each other's job.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 10:59 pm 
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Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model: 1984 D100 Shorty Custom
I know that the coil is connected properly, that was one of the first things I checked.. believe me, I've been that oblivious before.

It's one of those... stand around staring at it waiting for something to jump out and say Hello! I'm right here! Fix me!....


So yea.

Thanks for the input!

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 5:01 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Apr 26, 2008 4:44 pm
Posts: 347
Location: salem oregon
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been awhile since i posted on this thread, but she is alive. me and THOR got her in time today, belts are on fan is on, just need to put the radiator back in, get a gasket for the carb bowl and a bolt for the damper. thanks all for your help/input

~slantsixbob


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 5:10 pm 
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Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model: 1984 D100 Shorty Custom
It was that idea of Dan's that helped. I decided that I couldn't trust the timing mark on the damper, and just started going 1 tooth at a time. After about 20 minutes it was trying really hard to start, but couldn't... bumped the timing 1 more tooth, told SL6Bob to pour some gas down the throat, and VROOOOM! off it went. Bumped the timing a little more, restarted, and VROOOOOOOM! big black cloud o' smoke, but it was running, and well at that.

It lives!

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 11:54 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Cypress, Texas, Northwest Houston. The Lone Star State
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Yep, I put on a new cap and rotor, carefully, or so I thought. Then, when I turned the key, no start.
Arrgghh! I frantically searched this site, and again found Dan's procedure. Back running again, like it should be.
When I am about to attempt what I think should be a simple procedure, I guess that should be a red flag for me :roll:
Oh well.
Here is Dan's well-written, and much appreciated, procedure:
Quote:
That helical distributor drive pinion can whup even those of us who've removed and installed slant-6 distributors countless times. It can seem for all the world like everything's exactly where it's supposed to be, and yet the durn thing won't start! There are only 10(?) teeth on the pinion, so at times like these, I usually just remove the distributor hold-down bolt, note the position of the rotor, carefully pull the distributor out, very slightly turn the rotor clockwise and push the distributor back down, thus advancing it by one tooth. Snap the cap back on (don't bother with the hold-down bolt, as long as you can see the hold-down bolt hole in the block through the distributor hold-down plate), and crank the engine. If still nothing, advance the distributor one more tooth. Keep repeating this, and sooner or later you will get some activity under the hood. It'll likely start with a change in the starter sound — either the starter will struggle and hitch, or it'll spin faster as the engine "tries" to start, or maybe you'll get a "POOF!" spitback through the carburetor. Keep advancing the distributor a tooth at a time until the engine fires and runs. Advance it one more tooth to see if the engine runs better or worse. If better, leave it there. If worse, go back one tooth. Then reinstall the hold-down bolt loosely, set your timing by the normal procedure with a timing light, and tighten down the bolt.
:shock: :shock:

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