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 Post subject: Carb hell - need help!
PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 7:24 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Thu Nov 13, 2008 7:13 pm
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Hello-
I just bought a '75 dart with a 225 /6 and holley 1945 carb.
It ran like crap, and would frequently stall at lower idle speeds.
I bought a rebuild kit, rebuilt the carb, disconnected all the emmissions junk and plugged the unused carb ports,and plugged the vacuum tree at the manifold. Currently have PCV, carb bowl vent, and choke pull off connected- everything else plugged. Now it will only start with the choke plate fully closed (even when hot), and will stall out immediately if the choke plate opens up more than 45*. Likewise, it stalls immediately when I try to put it in drive. Any suggestions?
Also, the lifters are making one hell of a racket. How doI get them to quiet down?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 7:38 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
Posts: 1903
Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
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lots to say here, but where is your distributor vacuum advance can drawing from now?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 7:45 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Thu Nov 13, 2008 7:13 pm
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Vac-advance isn't hooked up to anything- I have no idea where it plugs into.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 8:01 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24513
Location: North America
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Welcome on the board. You have done yourself a disservice by just willy-nilly "disconnecting all the emissions junk" Much of what you disconnected — most of it, in fact, was not "junk" at all, and makes the car run better, not worse, when connected properly to a carburetor in good condition. Just randomly disconnecting stuff seldom gives a good result; you're working against yourself here.

From the info you've provided, we have no way of knowing what kind of overall condition the carb is in, nor what the condition is of the rest of the equipment in the engine bay.

Start from the start: Educate yourself in a hurry; go buy these three books as quickly as you can.

Then give the poor car a tuneup; parts and technique suggestions in this thread, and a valve adjustment.

Once that's done, you can begin to diagnose what's causing the car to run poorly. Could be any of many things under the hood, from a stuck-open EGR valve to vacuum leaks to a faulty distributor or ignition module or coil to wiring problems and/or a terminally faulty carburetor. If your '75 is a catalyst-equipped one, the cat could be clogged. Guessing at the problem will cost a lot of money and likely not solve it; systematic, educated diagnosis is called for here.

I have new (not "remanufactured") carburetors if you wind up needing one, but you've got a lot of learning and diagnosis and basic tune-up work to do before you get to that point, as it seems.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 8:17 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Thu Nov 13, 2008 7:13 pm
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Car Model:
I put in new plugs, wires, cap/rotor, fuel and oil filters and changed the oil. The egr hole has been sealed up with what looks like JB weld, and the ccegr ports were capped when I got the car. Where do I plug the distributer vacuum advance into? Right now the timing is showing 6* BTC - where should it be and do I just rotate the dist. like on a smallblock or is there some other way to adjust?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 8:52 am 
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6° isn't a bad setting to start with.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 9:35 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
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Location: Black Diamond, WA
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Quote:
Vac-advance isn't hooked up to anything- I have no idea where it plugs into
.

On the 1945 there are ports coming out of the base plate pointing at the valve cover. Use the smallest one just to the right of the mixture screw for the distributor. The next one that is a larger goes to the PCV.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 10:05 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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Quote:
... it will only start with the choke plate fully closed (even when hot), and will stall out immediately if the choke plate opens up more than 45*...


Sounds like no low speed fuel flow and / or no idle circuit. Basically, the carb is super lean at low air flow.
Did you blow thru all the passageways to make sure they are all clear?
Is the float level correct?
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 8:54 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Thu Nov 13, 2008 7:13 pm
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Car Model:
I did blow out all the passages. The tops of the floats are set even with the top of the fuel bowl.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 9:02 am 
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"Top of float even with top of float bowl" is...a guess of some kind, it sounds like. You really need to do this by the book. Here is the Holley 1945 operation and rebuild manual (pdf).

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 Post subject: Yep..
PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 9:50 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
The tops of the floats are set even with the top of the fuel bowl.
That's standard procedure for the big Holley's (2300,4150,4160,etc...), but like Dan said that's not correct for the 1945. Looks like he's got you hooked up with a manual.

Good Luck,

-D.idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 9:51 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:49 pm
Posts: 2445
Location: Lubbock, TX
Car Model:
I believe that is correct. Last time I rebuilt a 1945 the instructions said to set the flat spot of the floats even with the top (the body) of the carb. Seemed strange to me, but it ran.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 10:25 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2008 1:11 pm
Posts: 538
Location: Las Vegas/Henderson, NV
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man that pdf is totally awesome. thanks dan for posting that.

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