I'm sure this topic has been discussed but can't find it on the site yet. I run stock ignition on my 64&65 valiants, what would be the best upgrade (pointless) and also what would be 2nd choice (cheaper) if funds are lacking?

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64 barracuda
64 valiant convertable
65 valiant sedan
65 signet
74 vw beetle convertable
79 E-250 4WD van
94 dodge dakota

Best choice and cheapest choice is to swap to HEI. However, when you do the swap, I recommend swapping the weights and springs frmo your current distributor (if it is the original one) to the new EI distributor.

Do a search on this site to find the HEI swap threads.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I did the HEI swap and recommend it. The factory Chrysler ignition conversion also looks easy and will certainly work.
Cost of either will depend on your scrounging abilities and resources. I was given some of the GM parts I needed, but the corresponding Chrysler parts would have cost me a little cash.
Aftermarket setups will cost a lot more than either of those used-part options.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My HEI swap with a used distributor, used ignition module and used coil cost me about $45. I bought the distributor from a board member, the module is from an old Chev pickup and the coil is from an LT1 powered Caprice.

Please ignore the small block distributor. This ignition system was originally slated for another car.

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Joshua

If your distributor isn't worn out, just swap a pertronix in there for the points. No additional boxes needed.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Pertronix works, but its biggest drawback in my view is that all its parts are system-specific. You can only get 'em from the Pertronix people. If one of the components fails, you're stuck putting the breaker points back in and adjusting them, probably by the roadside in the middle of a rain- or snowstorm because that's how Murphy's Law works. The Mopar and HEI options use standard production parts available at every parts store and wrecking yard in North America, and quite a few worldwide.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Just FYI: I was very pleased using a MSD-5 multispark box triggered with points; a dramatic improvement in starting, idle, and low speed performance. It takes only seconds to jumper back to points, and I've seen people hide MSD boxes inside the air plenum very successfully. One of my MSD-5 boxes has run great for 14 years, the other gave problems since new and I finally gave up on it.

I put it on a scope and saw that it did about 5 sparks/trigger while cranking, about 3 sparks/trigger at idle, and by 1500-2000 rpm (it was some time ago and I forget exactly) or so was down to 1/trigger. The MSD5 is a simpler, cheaper box that is not capacitive discharge based like the MSD6, 7, and 8, but (1 out of 2) worked quite well.

Better-quality sparks by doing that, yeah, but you've still got the physical wear of the breaker points' rubbing block against the cam. Eliminating that wear/maintenance point is half the reason for upgrading to electronic!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

i used to have a box with elect. ign. parts that i'm looking for now. it had the dist. and coil and some othe parts that i can't quite remember. we used to run united tractors at work that had /6's in them with elect. ign. when they got rid of the tractors the one mechanic gave me a set since he knew i had the 65. if i can find the box i'll post a picture and you guys can help me out, of course the problem is there's only enough for 1 car so i'll still have to figure out what to do for the other car

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64 barracuda
64 valiant convertable
65 valiant sedan
65 signet
74 vw beetle convertable
79 E-250 4WD van
94 dodge dakota

Since I started using the MSD5, there seems to be basically no wear on the points. I suppose they do wear, but so slowly that it's just not a problem after 10 years and 15K miles.

An amplifier box like the MSD-5 greatly slows the rate at which the contacts themselves wear, because it greatly reduces the current passing through the contacts. But it does not (cannot) reduce the rate at which the rubbing block wears. That stays the same.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

i guess it depends on how much you use the car. 15K in 10 years? i can make a set of points last 100 years by never starting the car.

I have put 70K on my car in the last three years and had to replace a set of points because the rubbing block was worn out, along with the contacts. i suppose you could make them last a bit longer by going in there and dabbing the cam with moly at every oil change. again, how much do you use the car?

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Also a good way to make a '60s car into a Zero Emissions Vehicle.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

nope, sorry, once the paint starts to decay, and the rust leaches into the lawn, then the old oil and gasoline leak out, and the tires outgas as they decay into a pile of brittle synthetics...about 30 years from now... then it won't be so zero emmissions.. but then you could get a variance for being a pre smog car... with low mileage..


good one Dan!

-D.idiot