My son had the front wheel off his 72 Dart, and put the wheel back on and he just grabbed the torque wrench which was set at 90# from the previous time it was used. It snapped one of the studs off in the 9" drum. Not a big deal, but after the problems we had with the rear studs, I told him let's just replace all of the studs with new ones.
The problem is this. The new studs are readily available, but the old studs are apparently crimped into the drums. The gentlemen that I took the drum to, to have the old studs pressed out said that he couldn't press them and had to pound them out. However this enlarges the stud hole because of the crimp on the drum side when it is pushed out. The new studs then fit loose in the drum.
What's the right way to get these out? Can you apply heat? Your help is greatly appreciated.

Rick Covalt

There is a cheap tool which chucks up in a drill chuck and is counterbored to slide over the studs. It has carbide tipped teeth to cut the machine swedging down enough to make the pressing or pounding much less stressfull on the drum, hub, and you.
If he is not careful he can bend the drum, &/or hub. I know Goodson sells them, but they may be available from other tool manufacturers.

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd

Thanks,
I found the tool at Goodsons site but it is over $60. I don't really want to buy a tool to use only once. I may try cutting the remaining studs off and drilling part of the stud out where it is swedged. Then it shoud drive out easier. The garage only removed the broken stud and one other. When he realized how hard they were coming out he stopped.
Is that drum now useless? Can I repair these two holes? And how are you supposed to install the new studs? Do they need this swedging?

Our plan is to switch to discs, but not right now.

Thanks,
Rick

I can't tell you if it's OK. Yes, the new studs should be swedged, AND the drum should at least be checked for runout, if not re-turned on the drum lathe.

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd

I just used a cut off wheel and removed the heads on the backside then pushed them out the front.

I didn't figure out that the shoulder of the studs was peened over to hold the drum to the hub until after I had banged one out from the front. It oversized the hole and resulted in the new stud being loose. I just tacked welded the stud to the hub.

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Dave Clement
68 Barracuda (Hot-Rod \6)
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze4pgxf/

If it were me, I'd be shopping for another machinist. He shows a serious lack of experience, and worse, yet, basic machine savvy. I should think most automotive machine shops should have the proper tools to begin with, for such a simple and routine procedure.

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd

I suppose there is a special tool to put the swedge back on the studs also? Why aren't other manufacture's studs swedged in? It may be better but it sure is a bigger pain to replace one.

Rick

yeah, but you could probably come up with something else to work.
I believe the idea is everytime the wheel comes off, the drum and hub relationship remains unchanged, and the drum turns true.

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd

I know on my 65,the hub and drum were seperate, but on this 72 drum the drum is welded to the hub so it cant move.

I have seen new studs with larger shanks to press back into a new drum. Every factory drum setup on A-bods I've seen had the swedged studs. I have run new drums with the original studs (grind down swedge area a bit) and it works fine since the hub centers the drum.

Lou

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