I just replaced a 5 year old battery in my Dart last week and found the new one dead yesterday after work. When I put the new battery in, I checked and cleaned the terminals and the ground connection at the block. After charging the battery and while running the car I am reading 14.5 volts at the battery. I also found that my reverse lights are staying on in Drive and in Neutral position. All other lights and gauges seem to be working fine. I also installed new headlights when I put the battery in. I'm trying to figure this out without the FSM diagrams. I have the FSM's for my other A bodys just not for my 67. Any ideas?

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You need to figure out what's draining the battery. Are your reverse lights staying on even with the ignition switched off?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The good news is you don't have a dead short, no smoke, and no fire truck visits.


Where your back-up lights were staying on I would concentrate on that circuit first. The position switch that operates the backup lights may be out of adjustment, or broken, and stuck in the on position. This switch is activated by the shifter linkage, and is located in different places depending if you have automatic or three on the tree column shifter, or console shifter. If these devices check out OK than on to the second phase.


TWO::
Pull all your fuses and one of the battery cables from the battery, and check for voltage, or amperage if you have a VOM, between the battery terminal & pulled cable. If you detect voltage, or current flow all the circuits fed by fuses are most likely ok. In other words you have eliminated these from the system, and your problem is still there. Good news is; there are fewer places to now look...

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

The reverse lights are on when the ignition is "ON"

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If I remember correctly, the '67 automatics used a reverse switch inside the passenger compartment actuated by the sifter; later automatics went to a 3-pin neutral start/reverse switch on the trans. That switch will physically fit earlier trans, but won't run the backup lights right.

I'd be very surprised if your problem was not right at the switch.

Good call. I found the mechanical switch mounted to the very bottom of the steering collum. As soon as I removed it I found it sticking and not springing back all the way. I was reading 3 ohms in the stuck position. (Open) when pushed to the park position. I cleaned it up and greased it. It seems to be sticking a little causing the reverse lights to come on in neutral. If I bump the shifter they will go out. Otherwise its working ok. I'll have to look around and try to find a replacement. My dead battery might be another issue.

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i am sure it is another issue, as the power to the reverse lights has to go through the ignition switch first, and with the key out, where's the power going to come from?

disconnect the ground clamp from the battery, put your multimeter on 10A or better yet, 20A setting between the battery ground terminal and the clamp. take a reading with the key out of the ignition. if its more than a couple milliamps, remove one fuse at a time watching your meter until you find the circuit that's drawing the power. if you dont find it, focus on your alternator. if the draw disappears with the alt. output wire disconnected, you likely have a shorted diode or winding. rebuild the alternator.

if there is no draw, and the battery still has nothing in the morning, you have a shorted cell and the battery must be replaced.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.