Is the 1920 or 1945 Holley a Better carb?

I had a 1945 On my motor,but the nut that holds the linkage spring broke when I tried loosening it.I have the chance to get a 1920,would this be a better choice,or should I stick with the 1945?

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72 Swinger Special Originally a 3 speed 198/6 car now has a 225 with the 3 speed

72 B200 Shorty Van 225 /6

4 other Fullsize Mopars from 65-73

There's nothing that makes either of those two carb designs categorically better than the other. There are things to prefer about both designs, and at this late date (when one must generally take what one can find), often the biggest carb-related factor in how well and efficiently the engine runs is the condition of the carb, rather than its make or model. The Carter BBS does generally tend to age more gracefully than the 1920 with respect to durability of metering accuracy (the 1920's metering block tends to clog up and die), but the 1920 ages better with respect to physical condition (the BBS body castings tend to warp). The basic design of the 1945 is sound, but most of these were calibrated to squeak the cars past Federal emission control certification tests so they could be sold when new. They were not calibrated for smooth running or good driveability. Recalibration can improve matters. The Holleys are easier to re-jet, but the Carters are less likely to need rejetting, and the Carters have more thoughtful float designs.

You kinda have to pick your set of compromises and go with it. It's easy when you've got the choice of a new or as-new Carter, say, versus a used/worn Holley (or vice versa). The choice gets tougher if you have the choice of a new/as-new Carter vs. a new/as-new Holley! (Which you do, by the way...send me a PM if you want a new carb). A carb in good condition works better than one in bad condition. Never buy a "remanufactured" carburetor; they're junk. See here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

SPWC,

Dan's summary is very good.

Some thoughts from the tuning perspective.........
I like to do allot of fine tuning for better mileage and performance. Of the two carbs the 1920 is the quickest to change jets. Four screws and your there, about 3 minutes to take it apart change the jet and have it running again. The 1945 takes a little more patients and allot more time.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I sawpped a 1920 in place of a dirty 1945 and I like the way it runs and its much simpler to play with as Ted says. I may clean up the 1945 someday just to see how it dose when in good shape compared to the 1920 but for now the 1920 is staying.

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Grandpa's 1974 Dart Custom 4 door 225 auto, Aluminum Radiator, 1920 Holley.

What part of the BBS castings warp Dan? The top palte and bowl? I know the BBD does that. Nothing 45 seconds on the belt sander can't cure!

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Yup, it's the top-to-middle casting junction that warps if someone over the years decides to hamfist the through-bolts.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.