I have a problem with my Dodge...

When I have the engine at idle.. and step on the brake pedal and place D or R.. the engine turns off... its like the trans is braking the engine too much.

The trans has perfect oil level. I even removed the kick down.. but it continues.

I tried different engine´s rpm idle... 600, 800, 1000, 1200... only at 1200 the engine stays on but with a lot of hesitation.

Vaccum is at 22 mmHg... when I place the D or R... it varies from 17 to 12... when it reaches 17... the engine is more smooth...

Halmeter says the combustion is poor.. then rich.. then poor... it is not fixed.

The only thing i can think of is... valve lash now... I´ll be cheking that out when I have a chance.. but do you have any more ideas?

Engine is brand new... only 300 miles... and this problem is recent. It used to work ok before. Engine sounds very good.... it revs very fast.. and idles at N very smooth

_________________

Likely a vacuum leak or defective carburetor.

_________________
Joshua

I agree with josh. If your car has power brakes, make sure that the check valve is in place and functioning.

What carby do you have?


~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Power brakes are fine. I disconect the valve from the power brakes when the engine is of and a sound of high vaccum is present.. with a lot of suction.

But I will disconnect the power brakes and check again.

Carby is a Holley 2300. It is new.. it worked great.. and still does.. just this problem now...

Thanks a lot!

_________________

Could be a screwy torque converter too. I've had them engage at different speeds in the same 30 seconds. One time it would run at 600 in gear, other times 400.

Not sure how that would affect the hesitation. Hmmm.... What shape is your ignition system in? Could be a messed up dizzy, coil, or bad iginition wire. When the engine goes under load, it may be arcing out and causing a problem there too.

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I have an electronic distributor... Hei module connected to a 6AL... Spark is very strong...

_________________

Might you have any emissions stuff on there? That may be causing a vacuum leak if there is any... if not, I'll keep thinkin about it.

Also, check to make sure there isnt condensation under your dizzy cap.

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Nop.. no emession controls in this car... Cars starts with only a slight touch to the ignition key...

I´ll check the cap!

Thanks a lot for the thoughts!

_________________

Sounds like a leak on your intake manifold gasket. I went through this exact same thing. Maybe the intake nuts are not snug enough, or there is a stud leak. A vacuum leak or super hot temps is about the only thing that would cause that big of drop in vacuum unless the lash is way off. I had to reset mine 3 times before 500 miles. Then it finally calmed down with a lash of .012 and .022. Vacuum has held up very well.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Well.... the problem got worse and worse... I lifted the rear wheels.. and the trans shift good... no problems... but.. when i brake.. off with the engine.. I worked on the carburetor... made modifications... now it works awesome... but the problem remains.. and the car was impossible to use...

I was told by a famous automatic trans shop here in Argentina that my problem was the torque converter. That it didn´t unlocked... I makes sense to me...

Today i finished removing the trans... (dawm headers!) and I´ll be changing the torque converter with an old one I have... Hope this works... crossing my fingers!!! If not... The A833 i have is smiling at me... hope i can keep it automatic...

_________________

This is a new Argelite Holley 2300, yes? How do you like the quality?

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

This is a 70´s stored Holley 2300... You call this things NOS i think (new old stock)

The quality is very good.. i cheked every circuit for dirt or bad finish

_________________

Just wanted to make sure, you list vacuum as 22mm HG. 22 Torr is less than 1" HG. That's terribly low.

Is that what you meant?

CJ

# Low vacuum readings may indicate intake valve, manifold, or carb gasket leaks including internal or external manifold leaks. Spray carb cleaner around suspected areas to test for leaks.
# Plugged catalytic converters, stuck heat riser valves, plugged intake crossover heat passages, crushed exhaust pipes, plugged mufflers, (check out that mouse nest in the exhaust!), and similar restrictions will usually lead to very low vacuum readings.
# Excessively carbon in engines or those that did not get their oil changed often enough may result in sudden vacuum reading changes when valves stick. It could happen at any engine speed and may temporarily cure itself by quickly changing engine speeds.
# Lower vacuum readings directly related to engine misfiring may be a result of a burned exhaust valve.

_________________
64 dart GT /225
...........____ .
...._n_.[____].
..@\...\=| |....
....\.\...\ //....
.....L\....\......
.......\____\....

Nope... 22inHg

I had an intake leak.. but it was solved

I have headers with a turbo type muffler

Engine was cleaned and now was 10W-40 oil with detergent.. super clean engine... with only 300 miles.. valves are new

_________________