Oh well as I am conservative in these matters - placed order with comp

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

Josh, I agree, with what I have already spent a little extra on retainers is money well spent. I have mopar valves (P4120249) that a buddy had just sitting on his shelf in his garage. Just yesterday I asked him where I should get retainers. Said he thought he may have a set somewhere. So I dug around and found some! Crane Cams PN 99948-16. Just how much did the retainers "over" compress the springs? The retainers I have have a raised section surrounding where the locks go . They then step down and flatten out to cover the top of the spring. These retainers don't match the picture of the spring retainer kit from Crane,I see in Jegs. Those have a smooth arched top. One good thing is I have not paid for these we are doing a bit of horse tradin'. Any help/advice would be welcome.

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66 Lil' Red Piggie Valiant (Mater Crusher) - Thanks Zilla!!!!! 72 Demon (Number 1 Son's)

OH Yes - left something of the list... Bronze valve guides

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

wvenable-Be careful with the Mopar valves. Some of them took a special lock that is a different degree than most valves.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

P4120249 are valve springs and are, or at least were, good parts. Those Crane retainers will Not work with those springs. Those retainers will only work with short Crane springs and very low lift cams.

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Joshua

Here is a stock retainer in a 340 style spring. I pushed the retainer to one side to show the worst case coverage under static conditions. If you've ever seen video of valve spring surge from a Spin-Tron you'll understand that dynamic (running) conditions are worse. The spring is from Engnbldr and is nearly identical to the Comp 901 spring. The wire diameter and finish is the same. Only the free height is slightly different. In fact the Comp springs are about .030" shorter. Both are very much like the Mopar Performance P4120249.

Stock /6 retainer in a 340 type spring.



Here is the same spring with the proper retainer. Both Engnbldr parts.



And finally the Comp spring and retainer. If you look closely you can see the retainer is finished a little nicer. The finish difference on the underside of the Engnbldr and Comp retainers is greater.



L to R are stock, Engnbldr and Comp Cams parts.

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Joshua

Sorry Zilla, in my haste I neglected the word springs. Yep Josh is right , glad I included the part number. Looks like these retainers will be going back and I will be shopping around and lookin' at Comp retainers. Josh thank you for the pics I'm sure I'm not the only one that will benefit. Zilla thanks for lookin' out for this noob, I think I owe you a Rush greatest hits cd. Damn this forum is a great place!

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66 Lil' Red Piggie Valiant (Mater Crusher) - Thanks Zilla!!!!! 72 Demon (Number 1 Son's)

I can see you as a mall santa
Santa I want the newest blah blah blah,
You don't want that crap , its made in China, how about a nice electronic choke kit

Dave

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81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .

At the risk of taking this discussion further off topic, what about the Mopar Performance 340 springs? I've heard they're okay with the stock retainers. What do you think the best course of action would be for a daily driver with those springs and the engnbldr valves?

On the topic a bit more...I have the bronze guides too!

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Chuck and the Flying Valiant

You are not off topic - relax - this is like a couple of blokes sitting in front of a fire, some liquid fire in a glass discussing Christmas gifts .

BY the looks of it if you take a stock engine and leave everything the same - dont bump the cr etc - just the valves and porting - the big valve engine start to out pace the the stock one from 2000 rpm upwards - theoretically.

Makes sense since the stock head is 170 flow spec not 225 that slightly bigger valves and the associated port work would increase the range of the engine

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

P4120249 is the MP 340 type spring. It's an aggressive single spring with a flat damper and is more spring than a many folks need. The spring choice is really dependent upon the cam you're using and expected peak RPM. My '67 has stock springs (in very good condition) and stock retainers as it has a stock cam. The head has Engnbldr valves. The Comp springs and retainers I posted are for my 198 project. The cam I'm using for that is 230° duration at .050" lift, .489" gross lift and will spin about 6k RPM so that engine needs a stronger than stock spring.

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Joshua

Hmmm, then I may need to look into stronger retainers. Once I get the head done, the plan is to up the cam to a 270/280 Erson with a 0.465" lift, so that would probably be a bit to aggressive for daily use.

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Chuck and the Flying Valiant

The 340 spring is in the ballpark for that cam, but I wouldn't use that cam. Slants like more intake duration than exhaust duration. You'd be better off with a single pattern cam and better yet with one of about 4-8° more intake than exhaust duration. If you want the power of that intake lobe the get a cam with say 270/264° duration on intake and exhaust respectively.

Oregon Cam Grinding #346 is 262/252° advertised and 234/228° @ .050" tappet rise with .476/.479 gross lift and would be a good choice for a hot street car. It's ground on 106° lobe centers so the idle isn't going to be great, but it should make a lot of torque in a 225. Last I checked Oregon gets $70 for a reground cam plus a $15 core and shipping. They do have new cores if you want.

See this thread: http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=29721

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Joshua

Thanks for the tip, Josh. I'm really just looking to get the biggest bang for my buck for a street slant. Good to know about the intake over exhaust thing. I'd like to keep it at 270 if at all possible. I've heard people that were less than impressed with anything below 264.

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Chuck and the Flying Valiant

When selecting a cam be sure to look at the duration at .050" tappet rise and not just the advertised duration. Oregon Cam Grinding uses .020" tappet rise to get the advertised duration for their mechanical cams. If one uses a smaller checking clearance then the advertised duration will be longer. The Erson 270° cam is only 220° at .050" tappet rise. The Oregon cam, even though the advertised duration is shorter at 262/252°, is a more aggressive cam with .050" duration of 234/228°. Also, the Erson 270 is ground on 111° lobe centers (lobe displacement angle) which is wider than optimum for a 225.

BTW, the Comp Cams 264S for the slant is 224° at .050" tappet rise. As you can see advertised duration isn't the only specification for cam selection. In fact the lobe displacement angle and overlap is better than advertised duration.

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Joshua