the bearing cup is a press-fit in the bore. it should not move at all. as for the fit of the bearing in the cup it is conical and self-correcting, to provide for preload adjustment by tightening or loosening the retaining nut. inspect the cup for any roughness, it should be very smooth and shiny on the bearing surface.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Smooth and shiny it is, at least to my novice eyes. Photos below are from the driver side; the passenger side looked the same.




Here and here are two other angles.

Does this rule out wheel cylinder wear?

Thanks,


R. Wood

All that looks good from what I can tell. I saw no signs of bernelling on the cups, or weird wear marks. This certainly is an interesting issue.



~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

i am still not clear on whether you have checked the bearing cup in the picture to make sure it is not loose in the bore. can we settle that and move onward?

next step to me would be to get it on a perfectly level surface and check the spindle for level with a bubble protractor such as this, that measures down to minutes:

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

i ve notaced that they wear out quicker on the slanting side of the slant becouse of the grease and mess frome the engine and sounds like you need a front end rebuild mine was eating up 2 front tires a week untill i rebuild them

and dont forget to hand pack your wheel bearings

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six