There is a sensor on the top of the last leg of the intake manifold. It's got a hard rubber (?) tube coming out of it and going into the firewall. What is the sensor and how hard is it to replace the tube?
Thanks.
Joe

what car? year/make/model etc

Not a sensor, it's just a vacuum nipple threaded into the #6 runner of your intake, to provide vacuum to operate the heater/defogger mode doors on your '62. That hard rubber tube started out soft!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The hardest part of the replacement-- is behind the vacuum pod that controls the heater switches.
The plastic nipples that the line connects to break very easy.
My suggestion would be to leave the connection alone & replace somewhere down the line-- as long as the line from the control is good.I I hope you are flexible-- it is not an easy access item.
Lawrence

However, they can be repaired. See here and here, as well as here and here.
Eh? All I've ever found to be needed is to replace the ~5 inches or so of hardened hose. Cut it off, use a connector, install new hose.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Wow!! That started off as a soft rubber hose??!! That's amazing. I thought it was one of those preformed hoses that I would never find again. Is it just 1/8" hose??
I'm not sure what to do right now, aside from remove the mouse nest I found behind the heater box. (The removal of which started this whole operation) The hose broke at the connection as I was very, very carefully removing the heater box (OK, I lie sometimes). Someone before me had used some serious spooge to hold it in place. One thing at a time (yah, right!!). I should start a new thread as to what to do with the box. Everything is frozen solid right now. Valve, cable, the whole works.
I'm going to have to get a rubber stamp for saying "Thanks".
You guys are really good to me.
Thanks again.
Joe

Put the PB Blaster solvent to that cable and valve mechanism.
Let it soak. Add more. Let it soak more.

-Mac

3/32", actually.

Be very careful with the heater box; it's made out of fragile fibreglass and it's very easy to break chunks out of it where the heater core attaches to the box and the box attaches to the firewall. New heater cores are N/A; you're looking at a recore job. New heater valves are not hard to find for the '60-'62 Valiant/Lancer, and old ones seldom ever work well even once freed up; probably best of just picking up a new one. Did you find the ~foot of heater hose inside the box yet?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

"foot of the heater hose" Please explain?? You're right, it's very fragile, I've already got some repair work to do. As I said, someone before me really stuck it to the firwewall.
Joe

When you remove the heater core from the heater box, or remove the heater control valve plate from the heater box, you will see there's about a foot of heater hose inside the box, connecting the valve outlet to the core inlet.

You may want to look over some of the engine bay work we did on my '62 here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I understand now. I've seen that site of yours where you rerouted the heater hoses. That really looks nice. Yes, the box is out of the car and I've seen the hose. I'm concerned because everything I've found in the cooling system so far has been full of crap. That short section of hose between the water pump and the head was the worst. It had lost half it's internal diameter because of buildup of crud. When I got the heater box out of the car what was left in the core was brown mud. I haven't separated the two yet, that will be today. I've got to cut the hoses off. They look original but someone had been there before, I just can't figure out what they did.
The only hack work I've found so far is the spooge they put around the heater box. Is that supposed to have a gasket??
Happy New Year
Joe

No preformed gasket, no; the idea was to use mastic. Probably easier to use peel-and-stick foam weatherstripping.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'm starting to feel like a brain sturgeon(Joke). The box is out, the valve and core are out of the box. I didn't break anything. Life is good. The core looks good. It was full of a lot of mud, I flushed it out 5-6 times before I got clear water out of it. The cable surprised me, it seems fine, just the valve is frozen. I looked in my service manual for pearls of wisdom about the valve, it told me nothing. But I did look. You already answered my next question. My next quest is to look for a replacement valve. The box itself has one small piece broken off and a few cracks. I think with a small file and some epoxy I can get it back to almost one piece. That should keep me off the streets for a while.
Am I having fun yet???!! You betcha.
Thanks.
Joe

The valves go by on eBay with reasonable frequency for around $100 (though of course because you need one I don't see one on there now) or if you're in a hurry you can shop one of the NOS vendors, though that'll probably wind up costing more (you could have one in hand for $125 if you wanted to order it right now, from www.vvap.com ). Part numbers are 2219 280 or 1976 323. There are also rebuild services available (you almost certainly need more than just the rubber disc seal which can be purchased at NAPA as Balkamp #660-1000). There's even a new-design Volvo 240 heater control valve that can be snuck into the '60-'62 Valiant heater box without much beyond basic cleverness.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

If I can save around $75, I'm in no rush. It's going to take awhile to get the heater box done anyway.
Thanks again. My butts been saved again.
Joe