Yes, I know the pan for an early slant is different and both the pan and pickup need to be swapped so it will fit an early chassis. Not to mention the crank hub difference. This isn't a question about how, but about a "what if...".

While driving into work this morning, I got to wondering if a late pan and pickup would fit in an early car if you swapped the center link for a dropped center V8 one. This would give you the choice to use a deeper late pan and alleviate the problem of sourcing a clean pickup or having to rip your's apart to freshen it up.

Or is it still a no-go due to some other interference?

Anybody have any experience?

Just a thought.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

Late pan hits early K-frame.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I succesfully installed a 1976 pan into a 1966 Barracuda. It had a v-8 center link and the pan cleared fine, even with the wheel turned to either lock. Enought room for me to fit my hand between the k-frame and the front of the pan.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

D'oh!

Should have remembered that as I was the one who cut down a later k-frame and then found out that the motor is set 2" farther forward on the early k-frame and had to redo the motor mounts.



Good thing I saved the pan and pickup off the original motor.

Funny thing is I had a motor in the car with a later pan while I getting the transmission hump and mount worked out. If memory serves, it was close in one corner, but the only real problem was the centerlink. Wonder if I couldn't make it work anyway.

Figured I would get a quick answer on this. Thanks Dan!

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

Maybe I should keep my eyes peeled for a v8 centerlink. Thanks!

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

THOR, Eric w. & Noel helped me install my 1973 bh block in my 64GT,

we had to swap oil pans

we had to swap oil pick up tubes

we had to install a spacer ring on the troque converter to fit the 73 engine.

we swaped the oil pan, and oil neck from the 64 to the 73 motor.

i have a 243MB picture file of that install here http://www.datapunx.org/Install%202.zip in zip format on a uber fast d/l.

also check dougs oil pan seal guide ... i live by it!
i added a holley 2300 and we did more head and some cam work, its solid with over 5k miles on it.

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

I'd be interested to know exactly what pan that was. F body maybe?

I can guarantee that a late A body pan will not clear the K-frame. I have tried it more than once.

You can get a late A body pan to clear the K frame if you leave the trans out.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Sorry, yeah the pan was from a 76 Volare, so it was an F-body pan. It seems that the F/M/J/R body oil pans would be a universal fit pan, except for maybe some boats. I know they clear the k-frame in trucks and vans, and they fit the F/M/J/R bodies, early A's, and so they should clear everything else.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I call the later small sump "369" pan the "universal" oil pan for the SL6 because it does fit many chassis. (the blue pan in the photo below)

The 369 SL6 oil pan will "drop into" a 60-66 A-body but the shallow SL6 centerlink will rub on it's rear, no-sump section and the sump's edge is really close to the K-frame on the front left (driver's side) corner.
As routeen, I take a bodyman's hammer and tap some small "depressions" (dents) into these pans, even before I pull them off the donor engine... I've done enough of them to know right where to dent the pan so they fit right into an early A-Body.

Using the deeper drop V-8 center-link reduces the size of the dent needed to clear but I find that the 369 pan still needs a small dent in that area, to clear the deep c-link at full lock, right turn.
DD

thats all fine, but personally id rather change an oil pan and pickup on the stand than beat the centerlink out and replace it on my back... and then get it aligned... for the sake of an oil pan...

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Agreed, it is alway best to use the correct oil pan for the chassis.
It is also a good idea to swap to the deeper V-8 center link if you ever rebuild your front suspension.

Even with that, I use a "custom dented" 369 pan when:

1) I have a "back-up" engine built-up and ready to go... but do not know which of my 9 SL6 cars is going to need it first. (and yes, sometimes I leave the oil pan / pick-up tube off, until it's installation time) Most often, the back-up, 369 oil pan back-up engine is a good running stock engine that will "float" thru a few different cars as the years pass.

2) The replacement engine is going into a vehicle that did not have the correct oil pan to begain with and the owner can not locate the correct pan. (this happens most often with the 60-66 A-Body cars)
DD

My thought was that the v8 centerlink would allow for a moderately deeper pan in the back and allow for a new (as opposed to "rebuilt") pickup.

Sounds like it still needs some clearancing, though.

Looking at the picture, I would have to guess that the correct pan would allow for more oil and might be a better performance choice than the later pan, if you ignore the fact that you can't get a new pickup.

Thanks for the info, I figured someone had tried this at least once.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

I still have my first car (72 Valiant). The "good" news is I still have my first car 30 years later. The "bad" news is this is the car I learned (what not to do) on.

Thanks to SSD I have a NOS carburetor to replace a mistake made a long time ago.

So on to reversing another mistake...

At some point I stripped (or thought I stripped) the engine drain plug. I installed one of those "plug inside a plug" drain plugs that dumb 18 year-olds buy at the auto parts store. (At least I did not use one of those rubber things that you sort of force fit )

So I have two questions. 1. Is it feasible to rectify this error without dropping the pan? 2. Is it possible to get a NOS pan if I go that route?

In regard to question 1. I could of course pull the plug-in-a-plug out and try to cut new threads. But I worry about the metal shavings and not having enough meat to tap and the new treads not lasting over time, etc. etc. So I guess I am checking to see what others have done in this situation.

Additional information: The drain plug is in the rear-center of the pan and the drain plug is one of the "big" ones.

Me... I would re-tap the hole for the next largest thread size and be done with it.
There is enough metal there to do this and iif you put some grease on the tap, that will hold most of the metal chips. If you want to be extra careful, pour some light oil (ATF) or solvent thru the engine to flush-out anything left behind.
DD

And now, back to our regularly scheduled thread...

So what is to prevent you from using a pickup for the "universal" pan on an early pan? Is the depth different?

Just seems like the sump is in a similar location and if anything the earlier pan should have plenty of room to fit the later pickup.

I know, if it was possible, someone would have done it long ago. But I just have to ask.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car