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 Post subject: Hoist chain location?
PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 5:06 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 4:41 pm
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Hey all, new guy here with a dumb question. Where do you connect your hoist chain on your slants? I'm pulling the engine and trans together from an 83 D-150 and the only bolt location i can find towards the rear is a lug on the drivers side of the head about 6 inches from the back where the vacuum amplifier bolts to. Up front i'm using the hole where the top alternator bracket bolts to the head. Will these locations be strong enough? Sorry for such a basic question but this is my first slant lift.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 6:15 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Lubbock, TX
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That will work, but if you put your chain at the two bolt holes on the head between the manifolds and valve cover, that will give you the center line of the engine.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 7:22 pm 
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well here is how i have done it:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 7:39 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 4:41 pm
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Sweet! thanks guys. I just wanted to be sure.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 2:15 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:04 am
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Location: hillsborough NC
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also you can remove the intake and exust manifolds from the engine and usa the bottem back and front studs and then with than go to the top row with the next stud in and go that way and its easyer with the tranny out.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3135091

check out page 2 of my car domain and its at the bottem of the page

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 2:27 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Apr 30, 2008 8:28 pm
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Location: SFCAUSA
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As slanting six said a length of chain bolted onto the lower front and back intake/exhaust manifold studs works fine.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 3:10 pm 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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The two 3/8 - 16 unc tapped holes on the driver's side of the cylinder head were put there by the factory for lifting the engine / engine, transmission assembly. Using these holes for an engine strip will hang and tilt the engine so it drops-in easily

Using any other fastening points can be dangerous and makes it a lot harder to correctly position the engine during installation. I especially worry about using the smaller (5/16 - 18 unc) manifold mounting studs to lift a SL6... these studs are made of a low grade steel, are heat cycled to death and are known to snap-off with low force, using basic hand tools.
DD

Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:32 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 7:13 pm
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Imagehttps://post.craigslist.org/imagepreview/n/3pc3oe3l41131fb132919df6514eb14b4141c.jpg


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:35 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

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[img]


Last edited by 1969ronnie on Fri Jan 09, 2009 10:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:51 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 7:13 pm
Posts: 233
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hi, this is a factory mopar engine lifting/installation bracket that i have talked about for years. the original stamped part # is half gone and under multiple layers of paint. i took it of a slant in the early 80's. i have seen them installed on industrial slants. i should have taken more off when i had the chance. my local salvage yard liked the bracket left on because it made it easier to load them in the shredder. the front "D "hole is for engine only and the rear "D" hole is for engine and trans combo. it works like a charm. the engine in pics has 37k on it and coming out for the 4bbl slant that i am finishing to go in. i can pull a engine and trans on a barracuda without touching the hood. thanks, ron


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 Post subject: reverse engineering
PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 5:20 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
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Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
any chance of you making a trace of the adapter, then using a ruler / measuring device, spec basic dimensions for:
1)distance between mounting bolt hole centers
2)distance from rear mounting bolt hole center to rear D opening center
3)distance from rear mounting bolt hole center to front D opening center
4)distance from top horizontal plate to center of D openings
5)notes on material thickness, construction,(appears to be a single plate with a 90 degree flange bend).
Then post that on this forum, a person could then fab a part that would be pretty close to the original. Certainly no warranty or fitness for use implied.

thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 5:20 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
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Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
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ron, thats awesome. i am sure someone here would be very interested in reproducing that piece for sale here. if you could offer detailed measurements someone could price out what it would cost to do a run of them and i would certainly be interested to buy one.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:13 pm 
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Location: Seattle,WA
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yes mesurements please cause i'll fab up a few of those babys!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 10:26 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 7:13 pm
Posts: 233
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 11:39 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 01, 2007 1:59 pm
Posts: 830
Location: joyce wa
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Got one myself that I made.Mid70s chilton man for Dodge vans gives details and measurments.The factory van plate bolts to 3 intake/ext studs and has a strap from plate down to threaded hole by pan. I've got a drawing with sizes around here somewhere would post but my photobucket wont work,it looks almost like Ron's.

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed


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