what really is a cold air intake, and how does it work, and what exactly does it accomplish?

The term as seriously/correctly applied (by engineers and grownups) refers to a system that ducts relatively cool air from outside the car to the engine's intake tract, rather than relatively hot underhood air. Cooler air is denser, so contains more oxygen per unit volume, so allows the engine to produce more power and/or greater fuel efficiency. Almost all Chrysler products starting in 1976, including slant-6 engines, have their air cleaners ducted to cold air in addition to the hot air intake introduced in 1970 which provides preheated air when the engine's cold, to improve driveability and fuel economy.

The term as applied by kidzzz and the vendors who cater to their ignorance means an unnecessarily expensive collection of parts that replace the stock air cleaner assembly (or airbox), usually including a cone-shaped "air filter" that does a poor job of keeping dirt out of the engine, but looks different and sounds louder.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I am running all stock parts except the bulkhead fitting that is mounted alongside the radiator and in-between the battery. It is $4.99 from the RV store. The system works great all year round in providing good power and mileage.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Did you notice a seat of the pants improvement in performance (or significant increase in economy) after you added the cold air duct?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Jopapa,

For me, when my engine was rebuilt (no distributor recurve, no electric fan or 2.25" exhaust with heat flapper removed) it used to average 18 mpg and ocassionally get 20 mpg. Now the worst I have gotten is 21.5 mpg during the two feet of snow we had for three weeks and the best 25.5 mpg. Most weeks it averages 24 mpg so the cold ram air is worth a good .5 mile per gallon. My car weighs 3600 pounds with a full tank and me in it. Power is very good and strong, even first thing in the morning. No hesitation or bogs like before. After about two blocks after start up I am climbing a good size hill at 50 mph with plenty of zip. Power response is instant with no lag.

I would say the seat of the pants feel only comes between 60 to 90 mph. One blink and your there.....maybe with a bigger carb it would make a bigger difference at lower speeds. That is something I will be trying this spring.

After the rebuild (per Doc's instructions for torque and mileage) it just doesn't labor very hard. In fact my average vacuum readings are much higher and the power is incredible. It is a very peppy and spunky motor. That is why I had the 8 3/4 2.76 gear posi built. The 3.23 gears were just over kill for power. It was fun, but not practical on mileage with my 120 mile round trips to work and back. The 2.76 gears net a 2 mpg average increase. The 0-30W Mobil 1 is worth another 1/2 to mpg, the distributor recurve is worth another 1/2 mpg and sometimes more on trips, the electric fan, cold ram air intake and 2 1/4" exhaust netted another 1.5 mpg. It just doesn't work to hard as a daily driver with just me in the car.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG