I've actually been running RotellaT 15-40 in my other old cars since the zinc has been dropped in regular oils. Would this be okay in my slant6? Or do you guys like something else better? After reading up on oil pump issues, I'm wondering if it is too heavy. I'm in Idaho, where it's usually in the mid 20s or above in winter, but gets quite hot (105or so) in summer. Thanks in advance for advice, Kelly

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I'm sure I can do this without disconnecting the battery. What could possibly go wrong?

15w40 is too thick unless your engine is seriously worn. I'm in Toronto, running Mobil-1 10w30 in my old '71 Dart for easy, quick, low-wear cold starts. If I were using non-synthetic oil, I'd drop down to 5w30.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The whole zinc thing *may* have been blown out of proportion, but if you still want to be cautious I would run the synthetic version of Rotella-T (blue bottle) in SAE 5W40. And that's in fact what I run in all my old Mopar v8s and my Jeep 4.0. The PT Cruiser gets Mobil 1 5w30 (roller cams). Given the fragility of the oil pump drive in the slant-6 (I'm loathe to even use the word "fragility" and "slant-6 in the same sentence) I would err on the side of a thinner oil rather than thick. 15w40 is going to load up the oil pump drive very heavily in cold weather.

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Here in Tacoma, WA, I run either straight 30 weight or 5W-30.

I have been running 0-30W Mobil 1 since engine break in. It is a very good oil and the engine is actually much quieter vs the thicker oil weights. I am running a little looser lash for more torque (.012 - .022).
Over all mileage is a little better, great starts at 15-20 degrees or 95 to 100 degrees. It reads a constant 48 pounds on a stock oil pump and after market large scale oil gauge.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks guys. I appreciate the input. If I run a non-synthetic 5-30w, should I use an additive to increase the amount of zinc present? Dan, I think you mentioned a GM product?
Thanks again.
BTW I remember somebody mentioning that the oil pump bolt torque was 200 inch pounds. Is this for the five bolts which secure the whole oil pump, or the smaller ones which secure the plate over the gear?
I pulled the pump today to check wear on the gear and in the pump and everything checked out good. The gasket released cleanly from the block. Do I need to replace the gasket or put some type of sealer on it, or just torque it back down?

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I'm sure I can do this without disconnecting the battery. What could possibly go wrong?

Unless you are trying to squeeze the last few miles out of a thoroughly whipped engine, quit running straight 30 weight (or straight anyweight) and your fuel economy will go noticeably upward, while your engine wear goes significantly downward.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I only run straight 30 weight on a freshly rebuilt motor. After the first oil change I go to 5W-30. I actually haven't run 30 wieght for about five years, which is when the motor in my 84 Ford van was rebuilt. It has been run on Mobil-1 synthetic oil ever since the first post-rebuild oil change. I forget what weight though.

Straight Rotella SAE30 - works like a charm -

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

Absolute worst time you could possibly run it. Everything's got super-tight clearances and it takes forever for the oil to get where it's needed.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Interesting. THe guy I use for machine work has been building and racing all sorts of cars since the 60s. He specifically recommended using straight 30 weight for the break in period.

Your engine will run super hot during break-in with heavy of oil unless you run very loose tolerances for racing.

I built mine with half the factory tolerance and used 10-30 Valvoline for the first 20,000 miles then switched to 0-30W Mobile 1. On start up it hits 50 lbs. pressure and then runs at 48 lbs after an hour of running.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

hey guys i'm no expert but ok here is my 2 pentz

10 - 30 is what u wanna run, if you have a funky oil pump or an old motor run straight up 30. i perfer chevron oil cause @ costco biz a case is affordable and its quality oil. mobile and my fav castrol is good too. just try to avoid the bargin brands cause none of us have any clue what in that stuff.

napa gold makes a great filter, k&n's i have had nonthing but problems with. i just put a fresh one in today and it failed! with very messy results.
bocsh ( in a pintch ) makes a ok filter, also and wix is great. i am sure others will disagree with this entire post but i am posting whats worked for me. fram is junk but it can get you buy, stp oil filters are also garbage.
and the bragain brand oil filters are hit and miss but not on my motor!

check oil and again! check your oil often, in most cases these are older motors and they can leak from many places. a happy motor is one full of good oil with a proper filter!

i keep an oil rag in my trunk with 3 quarts of 10-30 for when ever i need it.

with my dutra oil pump i run 45 to 50psi @ idle. if it goes down i know i have a problem.

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

I think the idea of engine breakin with 30w oil is that percentage wise, there's more oil as there isn't any viscosity chemicals in it.........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Personaly, I've never had a problem in 20+ years with 10W-40 Valvoline (Napa and CarQuest oil are also Valvoline) and either Napa (Wix), CarQuest (also Wix), or my personal favorite, Purolator filters.