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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 6:37 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Location: Cox’s Creek, KY
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I just checked and I'm 90% sure that the blue Turismo with no rear end currently listed for sale for $1800 is the exact same car I was considering buying back in 2005 when I was in Iraq. :shock: The asking price is quite a bit different now, but the condition of the car looks identical... :?

I'm still concerned about the way the K member sits backwards on my Turismo...
Quote:
like a car built by a bunch of unemplyed hilljacks.
I think I resemble that remark :oops:

Let us know when there are updates in your Moparts thread. There are too many posts there each day to keep up with, so I just check in here.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 11:09 pm 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Added some more pictures today. We got one down bar fitted, and cut a lot more sheetmetal out. I am working with Bondobob off Moparts to get some sleeves for the ball joints so we can fab the lower A-arms w/o cutting up the stockers. When we are done we really want this thing to look less hilljack than it did when I got it. :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 7:13 am 
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I am working with Bondobob off Moparts to get some sleeves for the ball joints so we can fab the lower A-arms w/o cutting up the stockers
Im not sure what this means......

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 9:08 am 
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Car Model: 68 Valiant
Sleeves are not much more than a piece of tubing that the ball joint is pressed into. You then weld on your tabs/tubing for the A-arm. The Daytona uses an odd size, so no "off the shelf" sleeves are available.

If Patrick's lathe was up and running we would make them 'in house'. :shock:

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Last edited by slantzilla on Sun Jan 18, 2009 12:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 11:28 am 
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Gotcha!

Looks like good progress.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 1:02 pm 
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Cutting something apart is always easier than putting back together. :lol: :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 3:16 pm 
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Poser
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I know it is a little too soon to ask but, are you going to pait it red?

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 4:56 pm 
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I know it is a little too soon to ask but, are you going to pait it red?
Nope. It will stay blue. :shock:

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 5:50 pm 
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More pictures added today. :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 4:38 am 
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You're definitely re-doing some things! I ain't got the skills fer that kinda re-do. There is a guy selling an old DC RWD Daytona kit over on FABO, but I'd need to verify that it will fit the older Turismo. I think they are the same...

I looked at the first pictures again. Did they just slice out the middle of the original k member and tie in both side to the unibody with square stock? That would leave the suspension geometry in the factory place, unlike what has been done with mine turning the k member backwards.

I think mine will have to stay "Arkansas" for awhile, but I can get some ideas from yours and others on how to maybe do it better. Thanks for keeping us updated on your progress!

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 5:33 am 
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Yes, the K-frame is sectioned and welded in to the frame rails. That was the rule for the SS/GT RWD conversions. Stock suspension had to remain.

Our next trick will be to extend the rails to the front header panel with 2X2 box, tie it all together, move the rack forward 4 inches, and fab up the tubular A-arms.

After that is done all the stock sheet metal from the door supports forward to the core support will be cut away. Only the stock frame horns will be left.

I am hoping that when we are done there will be about 150 pounds missing from the front of the car.

Patrick is worried that the car will be doing big wheelstands. I am not. :shock:

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 7:35 am 
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That's some pretty cool stuff. It looks to be progressing nicely. Are you still hoping to have some shakedown runs before Kearny?

As you move the R&P up 4 inches is that what necessitates fabricating new LCAs? Is the 4 inch movement to allow more oil pan clearance?

I can't wait to get back and be able to work on things again. Not that I will be able to make the kind of progress you are!

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 7:40 am 
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Interesting idea.....using the stock unit body as a jig to build the tube structure.

You guys are moving right along....I spent all summer on an aluminum floor / rear bulkhead and steel firewall and trans hump. At least my frame and cage were set pieces.

What is the firewall plan?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:06 am 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Rob, I am moving the rack to get it out of the way of the pan. I wanted to do new A-arms for header clearance and weight savings anyway. I want the engine bay to be big enough to hold a big block. I may never sell the car, but if I do I want it to be open to a wider range of buyers.

I hope to have it done and out by Kearney. :?

Sandy, the firewall will be .024" steel because it will be a nitrous car. Aluminum wall would require me wearing a full fire suit. :shock:

Since no one will ever be sitting on the passenger side the wall will be flat from the passenger side over to the driver's side of the trans tunnel. There will be a foot box on the driver's side that will be fabbed first.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 7:02 am 
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While you have the firewall opened........how far you gonna set back the motor? :lol:

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