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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 9:32 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13104
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
I am starting the long term planning for the slant six I would like to build to eventually put in my 5th ave.

I plan on building a hydraulic motor and adapting GM 3.8 fuel injection (mass air flow) from a mid 80s GM car. It can be triggered by a 7 pin HEI module and a lean burn distributor, so it is about as close to a "bolt on" fuel injection system out there.

Anyway, since the motor will be fuel injected and will be a mass air flow system, what would be the best intake for a street car? Hyperpak? One of the new exotic Australian intakes? Stock one barrel? Since the intake is no longer a "wet" intake, I figure that manifold heating and fuel distribution problems will go away. But if it is fuel injected do things like runner length and shape matter any more?

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 9:40 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
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Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
Runner length is important, runner cross section is still important, transition from the plenum to the runners is important, tapered runners make more torque, etc.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 10:39 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Hmmm. So a side draft, long runner, small plenum (or stepped/gradual tapered plenum), hyper-pak style intake would be best?

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 6:57 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 4:48 pm
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Location: Burton BC canada
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Hyper pack that has the bungs already cast in?

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 8:04 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
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Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
Quote:
Hmmm. So a side draft, long runner, small plenum (or stepped/gradual tapered plenum), hyper-pak style intake would be best?
If you give me some specifications for the engine build I can work out runner lengths and plenum volume.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 9:41 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
I won't be able to do that for quite a while. I need to first get the motor and then tear it down. I have no idea what cam profile I will be using. About all I know is I want to use a 225, a wide ratio 904, and a rear axle with 2.2, 2.7, or 2.9 rear gears, don't know which yet. THe car is a 84 Fifth ave that weighs about 3500+ pounds.

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 Post subject: That's pretty easy...
PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 9:50 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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I want to use a 225, a wide ratio 904, and a rear axle with 2.2, 2.7, or 2.9 rear gears
That's a no brainer with the rear ratio that low and a direct 3rd gear and possibly lock up... the cam will have to be a 'torque' cam...MP243, Comp 252, Ted's cam...

-D.Idiot


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:24 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13104
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Thanks DI. I was figuring I would need a low RPM torque cam, I just hadn't researched out what would be the best cam yet. I can guarantee that the motor will very rarely get above 3000 RPM.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 6:16 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
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Reed,

Yes, the 254 cam is a stump puller.....lots of grunt and spunk off the line.

Erson E470301 254 254 210 210 0.290 0.290 0.435 0.435

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74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 6:42 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13104
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Thanks.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2009 5:30 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 6:19 am
Posts: 13
Location: metro Charlotte, NC
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Quote:
Quote:
I want to use a 225, a wide ratio 904, and a rear axle with 2.2, 2.7, or 2.9 rear gears
Sounds like my Dad's 80 Volare Sedan. 225-1bbl with a 2.76 7-1/4" rear axle for the first 120,000 miles. On a stock engine, the torque convertor locked at 30 MPH. Not too bad. After my mom fragged the rear axle, we replaced it with a 2.45:1 ratio 8-1/4" rear. The convertor still wants to lock at about 30 MPH, which is way too early (lots of driveline vibration, as the pinion gear, driveshaft, u-joints, and transmission really get abused under too early of a shift. You will need to replace the transmission mounts frequently if you do this). We never got to install the Gil Younger Shift Kit in the little locking torqueflite (raises the lock-up to 45 mph). The little locking torqueflite has been fragged at least twice (make sure that you do not use a cheap aftermarket locking torque convertor), and we "lost" the wide ratio gear set along the way during a rebuild. That's not as bad as it seems; you'd be surprised how well the factory Mopar locking torque convertor compensates for it.


That's a no brainer with the rear ratio that low and a direct 3rd gear and possibly lock up... the cam will have to be a 'torque' cam...MP243, Comp 252, Ted's cam...

-D.Idiot
I never experimented with a better cam for the "leaning tower of power." However, if the Comp High Energy 252S is as good as the Comp HE 240H was in my Dad's Ford 300 6 (Edelbrock SP2P-6C1V, and stock Carter YF-1A), it would probably be O.K.. We turned the 1978 big Ford 6 (F-100 LWB pickup, with 3 on the tree) into a real engine, instead of the "boat anchor" that it was.

Although Fuel Injection will help out, gearing a vehicle too high is a recipe for disaster. Your vehicle needs to be much lighter to take advantage of serious highway gears. Use every trick to get the weight as low as possible and use a different set of transmission governor gears to keep the locking torqueflite in 1st and 2nd gears longer than normal (shift into 3rd gear at 30 MPH, lock the convertor at 45 mph).

The heavy Volare Sedan never got more than 20 MPG on the highway, with the air conditioning on or with the family in it. My father-in-law's 1979 Volare sedan, with the same drive train, but no locking convertor and turning a 2.94 gear got the same mileage.

For the car to not get more than 20 MPG at lower rpms and with a smaller engine than my Mom's 69 Plynouth Fury (318-2bbl, A/C, 727TF, 2.76 gears), when it has a much longer stroke on the crankshaft, means that the engine never gets in the sweet spot (wrong cam or in this case wrong gears). Remember, a carburetor is a mass air flow device. Getting lousy mileage means that it's always operating on the power circuit. I'd suspect similar results with fuel injection on your car unless it's considerably lighter than the Volare.

But, even after all of this, it now has over 500,000 miles on it. It's out of service, but it still runs. It needs body, suspension, interior, and carburetor repairs.

David Gibson, Harrisburg, NC (2.5 miles from Lowe's Motor Speedway)


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