In preparation for my initial start-up after a re-build, I've been reading all the posts I could find on this subject. Here's a tip that I had not seen. Even though we had packed the oil pump with lube prior to assembly, we were still unable to get any oil pressure at all to show on the gauge - this after several tries at cranking the engine (w/plugs out). We finally removed the oil filter, squirted some oil directly into the center tube to the pump, and left the filter off. This must have had the effect of priming the pump, as on the next attempt at cranking, pressure quickly came up. Hope this helps someone else.

Roger

Good info...
It is always a good idea to pour some oil down into the pump and filter in order to hlep prime the system.

Also be sure to pour oil into both filter flange holes... the center one as well as the angled side hole that leads down into the oil pump's impeller area... that helps seal the moving surfaces so the pump can suck oil up the pick-up tube.
DD

Yes That's What I did on my last build.. I actually had the engine run a bit like 2 secs.. Before I figured out what wag going on.. So I did the same thing as described at the top of this post.. Put oil down the standoff 'till it's full and also down the angled tube and also fill the oil filter 1/2 to 3/4 full with oil and screw it on.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Saw a posting on a forum where that person had piped into the the port where the oil pressure sending unit would mount, then using an auxiliary pump, was able to run oil through the engine oil galleries, prior to starting the engine. Stated he would do that until he saw oil flowing out around the rockers. Is that process applicable to a slant? Worth the effort?

thanks

I have a container, that holds 4 qts of oil, that I hook up that way, with a on/off valve. I put some Vasoline in the oil pump before installing it. Pour one qt of oil over the valve train, then I pressurize the container, with the valve on. I start cranking the engine, with the ign off, when the container is about half empty. When the container is emptyI shut the valve off, turn on the ign, and fire the engine (hopefully). I only go to these extremes, with a new engine.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I used a 2.2L mopar oil filter,it,s alot smaller so it primes up quicker,just be sure to check your oil filter boss to be sure it will seal up,and will clear your filter mounting nipple.

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V8?? We don't need no stink'n V8!!

Not the right way to go. You want the largest filter you can fit, because small filters like the one you picked restrict oil flow. Use a NAPA Gold #1806 (Wix 51806), which has an internal standpipe for zero draindown. Search this board for 1806 and you'll find ample discussion of the topic.


,just be sure to check your oil filter boss to be sure it will seal up,and will clear your filter mounting nipple.[/quote]

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I was talking about initial start-up for 20-30 minutes and then changing the oil and putting the larger filter on it,Zero drain down on a bone-dry filter?

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V8?? We don't need no stink'n V8!!

Ah, gotchya, thought you meant to use the small filter on a permanent/ongoing basis. You do have to be careful not to use too short of a filter, tho, especially if your slant has the standpipe type oil filter adaptor (but then, the #1806 filter allows the use of a lower-restriction non-standpipe adaptor)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.