I met this super cool older fellow who has lived a life of old cars and Mopars since the 50's and has agreed to assist me in recurving my distributor on his refurbished Sun machine. I started a thread in the Summer in anticipation of doing this task but then life happened and the recurve hit the back burner. Now it's Winter and I've had a chance to collect more cores and even a bit of knowledge (not much really) This forum really does have a useful search function.
So here's a question of interchange. I have my old dual pick-up dizzy that I had already designated as a paper weight but I now notice that it has an 11.0R Vac advance which I was hoping to use. It also has the cleanest case and nicest looking gear of all my cores. Can I use any of this stuff?
I'm hoping with the help of my new friend's machine that I can at least get in the ball park of where I want to be before real world testing happens in the car. Good plan? Any other advice that would help with this big day on the machine would help. I was just planning on showing up with all my boxes of cleaned and stripped dizzys then making one winner. BTW I left my good operating dizzy on the car in case this goes horribly wrong.

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Pat,

What does it say on the governor? If it's going to be set up for mileage, I really like my 73/74 long slots distributor governor. They are stamped 15R.

So you don't have to do a search.....here is my setup. PM me with your email if you need Doc's guide.

Current set-up: New 1974 electronic distributor re-curved with a red primary spring and extra long looped secondary spring from a 400 big block distributor. 340 distributors are good to rob springs from too. Using the 15R governor with a 11R V8 vacuum advance screwed out 3 turns, (VC-208 11R can $10.26 at www.rockauto.com ). Blue Streak cap, MO-3000 Echlin rotor, Chrome Blaster 2 coil and MSD Blaster .85 ohm resistor in place of the stock MOPAR resistor which provides a full 10 volts to the coil at idle, Orange ECU and 8mm Blue Summit wires, NGK UR4/6630 plugs gapped at .040. Timing set at 16 degrees initial, 16 degrees mechanical and 22 degrees with the vacuum advance for a 54 degree total at 2500 rpm. The MSD Blaster coil and resistor provides good spark resulting in a smooth idle.

For cruise at 50 mph I am 2000 rpm, at 60 mph I am 2500 rpm. On the freeway I am between 65 and 70 mph. Mileage to date for combined city and freeway is 25 mpg.

This set up has enough spunk to bust the tires loose, even with a posi.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I'm actually using parts as directed from an older post of yours to set my base line. I have a 15R gov I can use and the funky dual p/u dist has the 11R vac can. I also have some big block dizzys to rob springs from.

PM'd ya

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Pat,

Just sent you all the files and pictures.

You need to know what you want the engine to do different.
Need tire diameter, rear end ratio, tach and vacuum gauge.
It's not hard to do....if you have clear goals and expectations.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Man I don't know how you guys can run so much advance... Anything above about 35 degrees at cruise (6 intial+long gov + 8.5r can) makes it ping like crazy.

Good luck with your recurving. I think a Sun machine would make it much easier.

You don't want to rob the vacc. can off a points distributor... it just doesn't work right...the arm geometry is off enough to give you a not so good curve...and it puts the pick up out of alignment from the get go...

I tried it a while back... I set the dizzy to 12 BTDC base... upon start up and idle it registered 5 ATDC initial... then advances normally through the mech curve... then tryed it with the vacc can and it didn't pull the plate far enough to be close to the 'stamp' on the governor arm...

FYI,

-D.Idiot

To help clarify........

Since I decked the block, milled the head for 9.5 compression, did the head porting and polishing, taller cam, 2 1/4 exhaust it no longer has any pinging problems. It is no longer the gutless wonder either! Before the rebuild it pinged at the drop of a hat. The higher compression really helps allot!

If you go over 60 degrees total advance it feels very flat under load and can ping if the engine gets too hot like on 100 degree days.

That is why I had Randy's Ring and Pinion build a 2.76 gear ratio 8 3/4 posi to help tame the engine. It has plenty of spunk and much better mileage for an automatic.

I drive 375 HP 10 to 1 compression ratio 440's which have a great feel and get good mileage (19.5 mpg). My rebuilt SL6 has a very similar feel with allot better mileage (25 mpg).

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

[quote="DusterIdiot"]You don't want to rob the vacc. can off a points distributor... it just doesn't work right...

Sorry, just to clarify. The vacc pot (11R) I was hoping to rob was from an '83 dual pick-up EI dist.

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You found a dual pickup distributor with a vacuum advance?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I think your commute will probably dictate a special " Top of the hill Curve".

The cool part about your Mopar man is that he is a Kootenoid and will comprehend your pretty unique needs.

Easy to make the case for a high stall automatic in Nelson.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Ummm, Yes?

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