I bought 6 or 8 of these from filter1.com some time ago. It seems like I'm having drain back issues with every other one. Some, after the initial startup, would give pressure a second after starting even after sitting 2 days over a weekend. The one I have on there now, after the weekend, may take 15+ seconds of cranking before pressure builds and I let it start.

What gives? Are they really that sensitive to how tight they are installed, or did I just get some from a funky batch? Nothing else has changed.

It's often difficult or impossible to build oil pressure sufficient to turn off the light just by cranking on the starter. How quickly does the light turn off if you go ahead and let it start?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Maybe with a stock starter - the mini starter winds 'er up pretty good. I can get enough pressure off the starter alone without running (ignition/efi is on a separate switch from the key) to turn off the light after cranking for 15+seconds.

I haven't waited too many times for the light to go off on its own without pre-cranking first. Maybe 10 seconds? If I forget to pre-crank, I get spooked when the red light is staring at me and engine is running so I kill it, crank, then start again.

Maybe 10 seconds isn't that long. I just don't understand how it can vary 1s from one filter to 10s of the other.

i got one from them and my truck would clatter on startup after sitting for a couple days, hasn't happened w/ the one from napa.

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-'83 D-150 shorty
-HEI
-2" exhaust
-Super Six

Over the course of the last couple of years, when I've changed the Napa Gold filters during an oil change, I've had two of them (one short and one large filter) with no oil in them. Anti drain back valve not doing its job? Have not had it happen recently, though thats one of the reasons I try to use Purolator filters (hard to find around here...only Pep Boys in Everett or Fred Mayer carry them). Never had an issue with them.

FYI, the Motorcraft FL1-A filters have an anti-drain valve. I have never had a problem, get immediate oil psi on cold starts and I do not have a pump stand pipe.

Mitch

I use the NAPA 1806 version also. With 0-30W Mobile 1 on a cold start up it takes less than 5 seconds to hit 50 pounds oil pressure. That's typical even on 15 degree mornings.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

12 bucks for a Napa 1806 filter up here. Today would be a good day to warm up the motor, drain the old oil, run some fresh oil through it, drain that and then install the 1806 with Synthetic, and see how it works.

The motor in the Dart is nasty, I may run Lucas or seafoam through it.

I guess I just got a few bad ones. I still have some left. Hopefully this is isolated and wix quality isn't slipping.

Isn't Seafoam a combustion chamber cleaner? I think leaving the crud where it sits is best. Don't want it circulating around, or plugging the pickup.

Diesel oil has tons of detergants in it.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

I was thinking a litre of tranny fluid run through for about 100 miles would clean things out pretty good.

I might try the Lucas fuel system additive, gotta get some of the carbon deposits burned out of the combustion chamber. #1 and 6 are carbon fouled, while 2-5 are fine. Brand new NGK's, wires, and entire electronic ignition.

I seem to remember that a Mopar oil pressure switch opens at 2psi or so... I had a low-oil-pressure '74 Mopar with both the stock light and an aftermarket mechanical gauge on it and I seem to remember that by ~3 psi the light when out. I've had several of the oil pressure switches go bad on my /6 - they'd leak inside and turn the light on when they pressure was much higher (>10psi), even though I used the correct special socket to install them.

I have the pump tee'd into the stock switch and a sensor for aftermarket gauge. I suppose they both could of went bad at the same time but I don't know...

I'm due for an oil change. I'm starting to ponder mounting the filter "right side up" with those adapters that are commonly available and running hoses.....

I hope this is just a freak thing and not wix slipping.