Perhaps because he or dealer also forgot to check off V8?

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

No no, it has a 318 for sure. THe slant six stopped being offered in passenger vehicle in 83, and I have that whole left bank of cylinders under the hood.

Well, I just took it for a short drive around the block, and it is definitely rear axle noise and it is getting progressively worse. Eric- that noise in the j-yark parking lot was the first time I had ever heard it. Since then, it has been getting worse. I get no noise going straight, but now as soonas I start to turn either left or right, clunk-clunk-clunk-BANG-BANG-BANGBANGBANG! I am not going to even bother pulling the differential cover. I will loook when I remove the whole rear axle.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Reed,

When we bought my wife's Imperial on the test drive it was fine, but after driving it home from Port Townsend it started doing the same thing. After Randy's Ring and Pinion took it apart, they found nothing wrong with it. So I run synthetic oil in it now with a bottle of friction modifier Randy's gave me.
It is very quiet to date and it's going on 3 years now.

You may get lucky.....

Since yours is a 7 1/4 pop the cover and take a peak. If it all looks good and spins fine, filler up. You don't have much to loose except a little oil and a bottle of friction modifier.

Allot of oil lube places will change the fluid not realizing it has a posi and never put in the friction modifier. Most kids that work in these shops don't know any better......

The bang, bang, bang, in a turn is the clutches trying to grab. Soon as you go straight it is quiet again.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Yeah, but the shop manual says the Sure-Grip was only available in the 8 1/4, and I am 95% positive that this is a 7 1/4 rear axle. The axle tubes narrow when they enter the pumpkin. I guess I will pull the cover after and see what the heck is in there.

As far as gear lube, the Shop Manual says to use either straight 90 weight, or 80W-90, or 85W-90. In my garage I've got abottle of 75W-90 synthetic and a jug of straight 90 weight, but the 90 weight is GL-1 and the shop manual calls for GL-5. Should I go get another bottle of the right weight?

What is a good brand of friction modifier?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Okay, I got the cover popped off and I think I have confirmed that my car has a 7 1/4 peg leg:



I felt around and didn't feel any chunks or shavings in the bottom of the case, but a thorough inspection is difficult with the axle on the car and the car not even jacked up. I could barely squeeze under there to get the cover off. The fluid that drained out was very nasty smelling and dark, and I don't think very much was in there. Certainly not enough to fill it up to the bottom of the hole the rubber plug goes into. Judging by the orange gasket goo, I am guessing that someone else has been in here inbetween the factory and me. That leaves open the distinct possibility that (a) the wrong fluid was used and (b) not enough fluid was used.

So I am off to get some gear oil- 90 weight GL-5 rated gear oil. I am keeping my fingers crossed that that will fix it, but I am not hopeful.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I can't see inside the differential case in that picture. Could you spin it to the side so we can see the spider gears?

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Its a moot point now. I drained it and refilled it with 32 ozs. of Lucas Oil brand 85W-90 heavy duty gear (exceed GL-5 rating!) oil for the most part and the last little bit was filled with Mobil 1 synthetic 75W-90 gear oil (only GL-1 rating though).

The banging was a smidge quieter and the vibrations weren't as harsh, but it was still there. I think this 7 1/4 rear end has driven it's last mile.

To top it off, the lean burn system is getting worse. And to think, I bought this car because I thought it was mostly trouble free....

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

That sucks Reed. Is that 5th ave we got the fender and door from still at the Pick a Part? Maybe pull that axle and use it for a bit untill you can find an 8.25? Can't believe they used a little axle in that car. Wonder if a Dakota axle will work...width wise. You'll have to relocate the spring perches though (top to bottem). Maybe a Ford 8"?

Sorry, I forgot your ride came equipped with a 318...

Hey Reed, look on the bright side, you are sure getting a heck of a lot of car fun for a crummy 800 buck initial investment.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Yeah- just not the variety of fun I was hoping for with this car...

Eric- I don't know if that blue 5th ave is still there. It is probably worth running out there and taking a look though. Who knows, by now they might have gotten some other F/M/J bodies in stock.

Rear axles are a pain to swap. Whenever I swap one (and it has been years since I did) I try and just swap the entire rear assembly-axle, springs and all in one go. Even then, it is still a PITA.

I wonder if I could rig up a hoist system by looping a tow rope around the rafters in my garage and hooking a come-along to another tow rope wrapped around the bumper mounts on the rear bumper. Then I could lift the rear end of the carwithout having a jack or a hoist in the way. This would allow me to unbolt one axle/spring assembly, roll it away, and roll the other one under the car. I haven't lifted an 8 1/4 rear axle for a long time, but last time I did I remember is was freaking heavy WITHOUT the 5-leaf springs attached...

Oi.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

If you lived a bit closer you could come borrow my 2-ton chain hoist. It would lift the car no problem. I could probably also hook you up with a steel beam to spread out the load on the rafters.

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Joshua

Thanks for the offer. My garage is built with 2x 10 or 2x 12 rafters (been awhile since I measured, but they are HUGE), and if that doesn't work I have a 5 ton capacity engine hoist that should be able to lift it no problem.

If I go get a long enough lifting strap from a rigging shop I should be able to just loop that over two or three of the rafters, and maybe put some 2x4 bracing between them to prevent flex, and it should be okay. When i was a stagehand I used to use lifting straps rated at 1, 2, and 3 tons all the time when setting up broadway shows.

A chain hoist would be nice, especially a motorized one, but if all else fails I can get one of those triple purchase hoists from Home Depot or Lowe's or Sears.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Why not just jack the car up with a 2 ton floor jack and block it up?


I just installed a 8 1/4 in my 66 and then reinstalled it after buying new springs.

I'm 48, with horrible shoulders from 20+ years of construction and I did it all myself.

Just make sure you block it up really well andtake your time. Dependent on rust issues you might want to buy U bolts befiore hand.

Good luck

It may come to that too. I just hate futzing with u-bolts. The past I have managed to fight the nuts off without damaging the threads or the u-bolts, but usually I end up cutting the u-bolts just to get the axle free form the springs. So my oal is to find a way to remove the axle and springs as an assembly with as much work room as possible at the back of the car.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Understood

As I said good luck. I have the distinct advantage of living in the desert southwest. It can be murder on interiors and plastic/rubber parts but a car that has always been here looks almost new underneath even after 40 years. (my Dart wagon)