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1981 B-150 short Van, stock 225, California emissions package, Electronic Spark Advance (digital Lean Burn), Non-feedback Holley 1945, AT
Driven for economy, not for speed.

In my area, finding the metal ones is a rare thing for our applications. There are tests you can do to see if it is the right one.

One thing you can do is hook the old one up, leave it out of the valve cover, start the engine and then place your finger over the end of it. If I remember correctly (correct me gurus if I am wrong) the PCV should not allow anything to pass while the engine is under a high vacuum (idle).

If the RPMs of the engine change much, the PCV is junk. If the RPMs do not change, the PCV is likely OK. Do the same thing to the new one. If it does as I mention above (assuming no one corrects it) then the new PCV should work fine.

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

There's no reason to prefer a metal vs. plastic PCV valve; the plastic ones work fine. That PCV valve design you're showing us is fine. Try to avoid the Tru-Tech brand; it's a "value priced" (i.e., cheap) line for use on throw-away or charity-case cars. Better to pay a buck or two more for a Standard brand valve.

Thor: your recollection is not correct in regards to testing PCV valves. See here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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1981 B-150 short Van, stock 225, California emissions package, Electronic Spark Advance (digital Lean Burn), Non-feedback Holley 1945, AT
Driven for economy, not for speed.