I have to re-design the swaybar on my 67 A100. I had to disconnect it in order to install disc brakes. the calipers eliminate the possibility of using the stock locations. in order to clear all the steering linkage I'm going to have to shorten the end of the swaybar about 4". I figured I could cut it. drill it out to accept a dowel for strength, taper the ends of the bar where I cut it and reweld it. anyone foresee any problems doing this?

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64' Valiant Signet 5.9, 64' Dart 170 moredoor 3.7, 67' A100 3.7, 00' Dakota SLT 4.7

Could you swap spindles side-for-side so the caliper mounts on the rear of the disc? (or the front if they're already on the rear)

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1970 four-door Dart, 225/A-904/2.45 gears. 0-60 in twenty three minutes!

Shortening the lever arms will increase the roll resistance of the bar.

It's an inverse relationship.

Half the arm length will double the bar's strength.

25% shorter will be 33% stiffer
.........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

It's a Kingpin straight axle setup and the shocks mount on the back of the axle. I figure the sway bar is easier to mess with then the shocks. I didn't think of how shortening the arms would affect performance. stiffening the bar isn't an unwanted side effect. I'm worried about the bar breaking or cracking being welded and possibly heated and bent a little. it's only 3/4" diameter

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64' Valiant Signet 5.9, 64' Dart 170 moredoor 3.7, 67' A100 3.7, 00' Dakota SLT 4.7

Perhaps rather than splicing it you could simply cut it to length and cobble up new ends. Maybe a sleeve with a flattened end or some such.

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Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

Ditto. I would rather see you not cut up an original sway bar, but if you must, I would suggest a thread on sleeve or press fit sleeve or something like that.

Are you sure there isn't a way to swap the calipers from back to front? Could you post some pics of your brake/suspension setup?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I'm positive I cant move the calipers. that would be an even bigger task. I already cut it up anyway. I couldn't use it the way it was so out came the sawzall. I have to bend the bar a bit on the drivers side to clear the steering arm but I think it'll turn out alright.

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64' Valiant Signet 5.9, 64' Dart 170 moredoor 3.7, 67' A100 3.7, 00' Dakota SLT 4.7

I have seen welded sway bars, but no idea on durability.

You could just cut if down, drill a 3/8" hole through it and run a heim joint end.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I've heard sway bars are often heat treated; welding them would definitely reduce their durability even if you polished the weld down so you didn't have stress concentrations. Plus, getting the weld to go all the way through a 3/4" thick bar is tricky to pull off. I'd recommend either grinding the ends flat and drilling them for links, or using some sort of links that clamp on.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

well its all together and seems to work pretty well. We'll see how durable it is. I'm not too worried. If it breaks I'll make a new one. I'm not taking corners really hard in it. I just want to change lanes on the freeway without rocking back and forth. seems to have done the trick.

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64' Valiant Signet 5.9, 64' Dart 170 moredoor 3.7, 67' A100 3.7, 00' Dakota SLT 4.7