I have a 62 val, 170ci with low charging voltage. New double checked alternator, voltage regulator checked,(replaced with a known working unity)battery checked and connections cleaned on all wiring from the alt. through the starter relay, starter connections. firewall connecters to the back side of the insturment cluster. My manual is for a 1960 val. and states there is a 7 volt fuse "near" the amp. gage. What's it look like??? I get 12.3 to 12.8 volts at all points along the charging circuts. Any ideas?

Welcome on the board! There's a lot that's different between your '62 and the '60, and one of the areas of greatest difference is in the electrical system. You will save yourself a great deal of aggravation and tailchasing if you will get the applicable manual for the car you actually own. The fuse mentioned in the '60 book is not on your '62 car.

You say the alternator is new. Is that so, or is it a "remanufactured" unit bought at a parts store? How and where has it been tested, exactly? What is the diameter of its pulley?

Which voltage regulator (exactly) are you running?

At what speed is the engine running when you're testing line voltage, and what electrical loads (if any) are switched on during the test?

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The "new" alternator is a Napa rebuild. As I recall they told me thier parts bood said the same alternater used on a 1964 would work on my car. I took the old alternator off because the voltage had dropped and is was making a bit of noise. The new alt. was tested in the Valiant with the stock pulley and on their bench tester. The rpm in the car was idle to about 1500 and the charge rate was still 12.3 to 12.8 volts. I lost track of the original alternator years ago. I bought the Valiant in 1973 and have used it as my daily driver and it has over 477,500 miles on it. I had the engine rebuilt about five years ago and it has always been a easy fix. This has me stumped. I bought a new regulator a while back for my 64 Chrysler so I put the new one on the Val. and still got 12.3 to 12.6 volts. Then took to original in an it bench tested good. Any ideas are apprieciated.

I'd measure the voltage at the FLD winding - if it is close to 12V, you're regulator & wiring is doing its job of calling for more voltage; if it is much lower, look for a high resistance in that side and/or regulator grounding problem. Measure the voltage at the alt BAT and at the battery - if they're much different (>0.5V), you've got a problem in that path.

Don't forget to check the engine block-to-body ground too - there ought to be virtually no voltage difference between the block and the body.