I needed a carb to manifold adapter as I stole the original Clifford carb adapter for use on my Offy intake. I like a sideways mounted carb and the Clifford adapter is easily turned sideways while the Offy adapter is not. Since my Clifford manifold was adapter-less I figured I could customize another part that was to end up on the car anyway and gain a little hood clearance in the process. The original through holes in the plate were tapped and threaded with a 5/16-18 Heli-Coil kit. I still need to get some 5/16" socket head screws and counter-sink the mounting holes. I hope this allows the stock hood to close.

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Joshua

Quite an interesting solution there Josh.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Nice. More bang for your buck?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Well, that funny looking plate withe the tubes down the middle was going on the car anyway so I figured I'd make the best use of it.

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Joshua

How big of a shot you going to give her?

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Probably 100hp total on the nitrous. I have a progressive controller that will start at 50% and ramp up to 100% based upon engine RPM. 50hp should be safe at 2000 RPM (less than 250psi BMEP) and the torque converter should stall well above that on the motor alone. The full 100hp will be all in around 4000 RPM. The controller also has adjustable timing that is activated with the N2O.

I was thinking about using E85 as the enrichment fuel, but that would require another tank and pump. Water injection with a nozzle upstream of the carb is also a consideration. I could even divide the N2O between the plate and fogger nozzle so the N2O would atomize the injected water. Chances are I'll just put good gas in the tank when I expect to use the nitrous.

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Joshua

Josh,

We already have 10% or more E85 in the CENEX fuel out here in Black Diamond. I have had to change all the fuel lines to fuel injection hose because they were melting and causing debris in the fuel bowl. I also installed a Perma-Cool Fuel water separator.

On the addition of H20, I am running it at the side of the Holley 1920 Economaster where the EGR vacuum port is located which dumps just above the wheel style booster. I have the flow adjusted with a valve so that it only sprays after you reach 2000 rpm. At that point you get a nice spray of water or sometimes I run a alcohol water mix. Under 2000 rpm it draws nothing.

What I have found is the it is handy for cleaning the engine head and valves. Spark plugs stay nice and clean and the idle is very crisp, no mis-fires like some folks describe from what they hear at the tail pipe. The system running when it's 15 to 20 degrees out is not desireable however, at higher temps above 40 degrees provides a nice power boost, especially on hot 90 to 100 plus degree days. An engine running lots of advance on a hot day could experience pinging however, running the H20 or alcohol mix keeps the engine nice and spunky and power output is very strong.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Just asking, but why complicate things with a progressive controller on a 100 shot?

Nitrous is never 100% safe at 2000 RPM either. Might pound out the rod bearings, might blow the carb off, might be OK.

Just me, but I would never spray with water injection. That works well on a blower or turbo app, but I am not a big fan of putting any more liquid into the mix than absolutely necessary. Wet a plug and you will drive over the crank.

I have considered spraying on E-85. I think it would work well, but you have to up the volume to keep from going nitrous rich. Once again, you end up with a lot of liquid volume in a small bore/small chamber and that ups the chance for a hydrauliced cylinder.

Pull a little timing, use good fuel, keep your fuel pressure good, and you'll never have any trouble at a 100 horse hit.

One little hint: When reading the plugs, the color of the porcelain is immaterial. It will be bone white when everything is right.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I'm using the progressive controller to help starting line traction and protect the engine. The torque converter should stall over 2600 RPM on the motor alone so it's highly unlikely we'll have nitrous flow and 2000 RPM at the same time. With a straight all-at-once 100hp shot I feel I'd be pushing my luck hitting it below 4000 RPM as the calculated BMEP is just over 250psi at 4000 with the 100hp shot. With the progressive controller I can dial in a nice broad torque increase rather than a fixed horsepower increase.

I'm not at all worried about spraying in a little water. The volume of water would be about 30% that of the total fuel volume (gasoline) at most. The KISS method though says just buy good gas. Unless I start driving this car a lot on the street that's exactly what I'll do.

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Joshua

I "hit" my 170 right on the starting line. Converter stall is about 3,000 rpm. Never had any problem at all, with less the 150 shot. It starts to get interesting at 150 and higher. The first time I used nitrous was in a 74 Dart with a totally stock 100,000 mile 318. Ran high 13's with a 2.93 peg leg and a stock converter. Hit the bottle right on the line. It was my wifes "grocery getter", and had the nitrous on it for 4 years, without breaking a thing. 100 hp plate system. Nitrous has more effect off the line, then down track, espicially a small shot.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I need to get shorter screws to hold the plate down, but you get the idea. The spray bars are lined up right over the plenum divider so you can't see the divider. The lump in the center is the weld holding the divider in place. After speaking with a knowledgeable friend who had a well fitted divider work loose and rattle I decided my divider would be welded. There will be some communication between the two halves of the manifold through the gaps around the spray bars.

The manifold is a smoothed out Clifford that my friend Dave powder coated with his Eastwood kit and powders I bought from Caswell Plating. It's Ultra Chrome and a clear top coat. There are some bubbles in the finish where there were pits in the casting. The manifold is not made from the best vacuum degassed aluminum I'm sure. I think I know how to avoid the bubbles in the future, but more testing is needed to know for certain.

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Joshua

That is a gorgeous setup! Nice work.

Looks Awesome Josh
Im looking forward to seeing how it preforms.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Thanks Reed, thanks Frank,

Lots more work to do before we see how the car performs. Plenty to do on the engine. Then the engine and trans have to meet each other and together meet the car along with the motor plate and a yet to be fabricated custom trans cross member. Man, sounds like I need to get to work!

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Joshua