Dear All,

I am trying to give life to a 1975 Powerwagon 4WD truck (W200) with slant6 engine. I have replaced the cylinder head, swithced to Carter BBD, shaved 0,04" (1.2 mm) off, use standart back cut valves. I use an electric fan for cooling. When I drive my car around 2000-2500 rpm the engine is around 90 degrees but if I have more rpm and power the engine quickliy reached 100-110 degrees and the fans start for cooling. Its winter in Turkey and its around 3 degrees. It should not activate the cooling fans (yes fans, I have 3 at the moment, wow! My oil is 20W-50 which is thick for most people in this forum but in Turkey all people use 20W50. So it must be something else... Is it because my valves may have been tight? My radiator is clean, water pump new, I have circulated cooling water many times, although the color is still rusty, it seems its not blocked. What can be the reason? Can my radiator lost its cooling ability? Should I replace the radiator in the first place? HEEEEEELP

Its 37 Deg F and you are running 20w50? If all people in Turkey ran water in their gas tank would you?

heheh.. you are absolutely right but you know the workshops, its hard to change their habbits. the modern engines use 15W-30 oil and most people thinks its also suitable for slant6, what do you suggest? Its currently 40F and in summer it goes up to 95F. Is 20W-50 too thick?

Thanks

Yes, 20w50 is too thick — use 10w30 instead — but the 20w50 oil is not causing your overheating.

What thermostat is installed? Have you tested it? What condition is your radiator in? What is your base ignition timing setting, and is your vacuum advance hooked up and working?

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

ok. I will switch to 10w30, I have removed the thermostat so that I elliminated the thought of it... I really do not know my radiator condition.. when I pour water in it with the return hose off, it seems pretty resistance free but anyhow..I think its the faulty part... My vacuum advance works (I checked it with a timing light) but I do not know any specific value for the timing. I left it where I think it sounds ok. Its before the timing scale on the engine... if it only has 5 degrees.. I guess its .. er... 7 or 8 maybe?

You need a proper thermostat in the engine. Pick a 180°F (82°C) unit of good quality.
That's important to know, especially when you're having overheating problems.
Not good enough. Use your timing light to set the base timing correctly.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Let me know if I missed something but...

Am I wrong in assuming that by 90 and 100-110 you are reading that in degrees Fahrenheit? If those are accurate readings, your engine is not overheating, it's barely warm!

What are you using to measure the temperature of the coolant?

What evidence do you have that it is overheating?

If I am correct in assuming that the 90, 100-110 range is in Fahrenheit, then you need to do as Dan said and get that thermostat installed so you can get the engine to operating temperature.

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Yes, you are wrong to assume that. Remember, only the United States uses Fahrenheit degrees. The entire, whole rest of the world (including Turkey where the poster is located) uses Celsius degrees, and has for many years.

90°C = 194°F
100°C = 212°F
110°C = 230°F

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

yes THOR it in celcius degrees, sorry not to mention that.

No problem, was just trying to understand.

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Check to make sure your bottem radiator hose is not collapsing when the engine revs. Collapsed hose = no flow.