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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 8:43 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2007 11:08 am
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Location: Kerrville, TX
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All this is on my '64 D100 with a recently rebuilt 225. I installed HEI ignition as per the article here on the forum. Here's the problem: when I go to start the motor, and it doesn't start, I'll turn the key off and the motor will continue to crank. It does this off and on and appears to be completely random when it does it. It does it when I first go out to start it for a few days, or if I drive it around, then shut it off, then come back a few minutes later, it may do it again. When it does this, ignition (spark) is not on-I've checked-there is no spark when it does this. Here's what I have done so far to try and remedy it: new starter relay, new ignition switch, rewired a few bad looking wires going from ignition switch to under hood, cleaned starter solenoid contacts, grounds, and cleaned the contacts at the starter relay. I know it's not the starter switch (even though it's new) because I pulled the "starter" wire off from the back of the switch and touched it to the "battery" contact on the switch, then immediately removed it and even after I removed it, the motor conitnued to crank. Does someone know what's going on? Like I said, it seems completey random. When it works, it starts right up and runs fine, and when it doesn't, I have to make a bee-line to pull the battery cable off to stop the cranking.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 9:07 pm 
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If I understand you correctly, even if you remove the smaller of the two wires from the starter, it'll keep cranking. If that's the case, sounds like the solenoid in your starter is sticking "on". Pulling and going thru the starter (clean, check, service, rebuild) will likely take care of it. A local auto electrical shop can handle it if you haven't got the tools to do it yourself. Don't get a parts store "remanufactured" starter.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 9:51 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2007 11:08 am
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Location: Kerrville, TX
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Ok, I'll pull the starter and solenoind and see if I can't clean it out and and rebuild it.

Assuming that solves the starter problem, then do you happen to have a solution to the no spark problem? It seems that when the starter problem happens, the no spark problem also happens.

Thanks

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Stephan Nelle


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 6:24 am 
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From your description, I'm not sure I understand when you have no spark...more detail, plz?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:26 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2007 11:08 am
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Location: Kerrville, TX
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The no spark condition occurs simultaniously with the starer problem. While I am am cranking with the key in the "start" position, the ignition should be one and spark plugs should be firing, but they are not. It only seems to have no spark when the starter acts up. It's either both conditions (no spark and keeps cranking) or none (it starts and runs fine). Hope that is a little clearer.

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Stephan Nelle


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:28 am 
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H'mmmm…that makes the question clearer, but the answer less clear. I'm changing my vote, given this what you describe; I'm no longer thinking it's a starter solenoid problem. I think it is a wiring problem. This is the truck with the aftermarket prefab "hot rod" wiring harness meant for a GM engine, do I remember correctly?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 9:00 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2007 11:08 am
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Location: Kerrville, TX
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Na, go GM pre-fab here. I used an Accel HEI module, MSB Blaster coil, electronic distributor from Rob (DusterIdiot)and a relay and wired it up as per the HEI Elctronic Ignition Retorfit How To Article here on the forum.

Is there a test you can do on the module to check it's getting the correct voltage where and when it should be? (ex: terminal "A" should get x volts when key is in x position, and terminal "B" should get x volts when key is in x position, etc.)

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Stephan Nelle


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:57 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2007 11:08 am
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Location: Kerrville, TX
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I got to thinking about it, and correct me if I am wrong, but the starter cannot keep spinning without power going to it from the relay via the ignition switch can it? I was thinking about how you said to take apart and clean the starter solenoid because it might be sticking. Even if the solenoid is sticking, how does the starter continue to spin once I let off the "start" position on the key switch? Am I missing something?

Last night I went and cleaned the contacts and the ground from the alternator regulator just in case.

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Stephan Nelle


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 11:30 am 
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The starter solenoid pushes closed a large normally-open spring-loaded switch. This closes the circuit between the battery and starter motor. Before starter solenoids came into use folks pushed a pedal which closed the starter switch. If the solenoid sticks in the on position the starter motor circuit will remain closed and the starter will continue to spin. The solenoid being free to move and the return spring being strong enough to open the switch are vital.

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Joshua


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 11:31 am 
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I got to thinking about it, and correct me if I am wrong, but the starter cannot keep spinning without power going to it from the relay via the ignition switch can it?
Yup...if the starter solenoid remains in the "on" position, whether because of electricity coming from somewhere it shouldn't come from or because it's physically stuck, the starter will keep on crankin', fed by the battery positive cable.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 11:38 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2007 11:08 am
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Location: Kerrville, TX
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Got it! Thanks. That's the exact info I didn't know :oops: . Now time to go pull the starter and check the solenoid. Hopefully that's the problem, although I suspect there is something else fishy happening with the ignition circuit.

Does anyone know a good test of the HEI module (what voltages should be on what terminals when?

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Stephan Nelle


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