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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 12:04 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Dec 08, 2007 9:48 pm
Posts: 570
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 2:51 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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You need to match engine speed (trans. input shaft speed) with wheel speed. (trans. output shaft)
This means you have to rev the engine before downshifting into first.
If you have a working speedometer and tach, you can correlate MPH to RPMs in first gear.
Knowing that relationship, you will look at your speed when you need to downshift into first and rev the engine to the RPM needed to get smooth engagement.
It sounds complicated but you will get pretty good at it with some practice.

Better yet, dump the non-syncro trans for a full syncro unit like a A230 or an A833.
DD


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 9:38 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Dec 08, 2007 9:48 pm
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Thanks Doug. I guess I haven’t driven it enough to get the hang of it. I read a thread about the thickness of different transmission lube the other day and was hoping there was some magic trick to make it work easier.

Meanwhile, I’ll keep my eyes open for a transmission.

Danny


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 9:36 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
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Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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When it comes to two gears "crashing" together, (non-syncro design) there is no oil that will help soften that action. The thickest oil (grease) possible will reduce the pending impact damage, when the two gears collide but oil that thick is not good for the syncrows or the bearings that are also in the gearbox.
DD


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 4:33 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:19 pm
Posts: 174
Location: oklahoma city
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I have a A230 transmission in my garage from a a body. if you are close to oklahoma you can have it if you want it want it.

joe

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1964 barracuda 198 slant


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 8:54 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:19 am
Posts: 470
Location: SC
Car Model: 63 Dart 81 D150
I drive a 63 Dart with prolly the same transmission, it has a non syncro first. I am fairly sure that the correct gear oil is GL5 or "regular gear oil" and not ATF. Your manual transmission (of that era) and your differential oil should be the same weight, whatever the climate dictates.

First make sure your clutch disengages all the way. The least little bit of clutch drag at all and forget getting it in first at anything other then a stop. Your 64 truck should be a hydraulic clutch, make sure it is not leaking or seeping at all, even a tiny bit of leak down can cause it to drag.

The next thing to do is to make sure your linkage is good and tight, sloppy linkage can make it hard to get in too.

I can get my Dart in 1st at a 7 mph or so, above 5 mph or so there is some crunch. Even with 2.76 rear gears and P245-60-15 rear tires, I can pull 2nd at 7 to 10 mph.

Shorter rear tires may be a "stop gap" way of making it drivable for a while.



TopHat


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2009 1:34 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2009 4:16 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 03, 2008 8:57 am
Posts: 150
Location: Edge of the World
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The closest thing I have found to Type A Suffix A is Penzoil Multi-Vehicle ATF. Back in the old days we used Type A Suffix A in both automatic trannys as well as in the power steering system. As the ATF implies this is an automatic transmission fluid. Failing to find that, any Dexron III will work.
The rear ends usually use a GO 80/90 oil, with a pint of a Mopar additive for the Sure Grip differential units (both types). Hope this is helpful.

_________________
You can't fix stupid. - Ron White


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 9:31 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Dec 08, 2007 9:48 pm
Posts: 570
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Thanks, That is helpful. I haven't gone looking yet but I was wondering what I would find. I'll add it to the list!

Danny


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