I have a Disk/Drum convention on my 68 Dart. Theres no proportioning valve, and it pulls to the right on braking. Its bad enough that we just replaced the pads and rotor on the right (originally thought it was bearings, turns out the squeaking was the brakes, and the over ground rotor)

Its manual brakes, with late 70's front disk, and stock 68 rear drums. Will the proportioning valve help eliminate the pull, or do I need to look somewhere else to solve this?

I know Its a good thing (along with the residual pressure valve as per this thread) but I'm getting a conflicting message between it effecting L/R and F/B distribution

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My Car Domain

The valve won't help with the pull........

Are the front brakes or rear brakes causing the pull?

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Its the front. One side still has nice meat on the pads, the other, grinding the rotor. (was not happy when I found that. Had misidentified the squeak sound while moving, no sound on stopping) Its been under 3K sence the front end was redone

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My Car Domain

It sounds like a sticking caliper causing uneven pressure (and uneven wear) side to side.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

A clogged up brake hose can do that too...

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Whatever the fix winds up being, you will want to install an appropriate proportioning valve ASAP — don't wait until you have to stand on the brakes to avoid a crash and suddenly find yourself facing a direction other than the one you previously selected with the steering wheel.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ah, the fun of being the fourth owner, second after a lowrider. ALot of mods are done half way, say like the brakes.

So, sounds like I'm bleading the fronts to see if something clogged or has air. As for the proportioning valve, where those on later models, or is it after market.

Just thinking out loud, I would think they have them on later model cars with the disk front and drum rear.

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My Car Domain

You can get the proportion valve or "combination valve" from a disk brake equipped car or you can get an adjustable aftermarket valve for arounf $40.00 as I recall.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

My car book says a combination valve is 3-in-1, a pressure differential valve that sets off a warning light, a metering valve to compensate for drum springs, and a proportioning valve. That sounds like a good idea.

Being happily self-underemployed, I've been looking into the valve question. I'm now at the point where I know more about brake valves than the tech at Inline Tube (which isn't much). One source who seemed knowledgeable was the brakeman: http://www.thebrakeman.com/valvetechii
The link should take you to page 2 where he discusses metering valves. Without them, he says, in stops from less than 30 mph, the front brakes are doing all the work, since the resistance of the rear springs hasn't been overcome= fast pad wear.
I haven't found a good source for a combination valve yet, but would like to for economy. Otherwise, metering and prop. valves separately seems like the way to go.
In defense of Inline Tube, I just got some ss caliper lines from them that look awesome.

That is not necessarily the case. A combination valve can contain a pressure differential valve for the warning light, a hold-off valve to compensate for drum springs, and a proportioning valve, but not all of them do. The original A-body disc/drum combination valves contain a pressure-differential valve for the warning light and a proportioning valve, but no hold-off valve. The B-, C-, and D-body combination valves (and probably the F-, M-, J-body valves) do contain the hold-off valve.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Both Inline Tube and Classic Tube have them.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You can get a Combo Valve at Master Power Brakes too.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/produc ... uct_id=614

bwhitejr

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'72 Duster (Performance 360)
'83 Ramcharger (Performance 318)
'80 TrailDuster (360)
'80 D-150 Truck (See Below)
CompCams 252S, Holley 390cfm, Offy manifold
Ported, Polished and Gasket Matched
P4286813 Springs,0.040 Overbore,
0.090 Shaved Head

not meaning to jack the thread but pretty sure i didn't see it, but what happens when you switch to to rear disc * its a f-body so she already has front disc*. I was thinking of just using the prop block from the jeep that I am taking the disc setup from, would that be the wasy to go, or will I still need a adjustable prop valve and residual valve(s) ?

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

You'll still want a proportioning valve, but the hold-off valve that delays front brake application can go.

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Joshua