Unfortunately, it's harder to find radiators for the '64 and earlier cars, because they have a narrower radiator support panel opening than the '65 and newer cars. See my link in my second post in this thread. Too bad that bracket went missing; they are pretty much unique to these early radiators and not available as separate service parts. Maybe your dad can dig a little harder for it…? Maybe it's in the trunk?

Later engine clues: Five freeze plugs in a row instead of three in a triangular formation, first part ("28...") of the block casting number visible.

Thermostatic air cleaner is not hooked up, probably because the '63 carburetor (re-used because the early throttle linkage is different from the later type) does not have a manifold vacuum tap to operate the thermostatic air cleaner. This can be worked around by means of a simple vacuum tap replacing the blankoff plug in the rearmost intake manifold runner, and you'd also need to pick up the flexible duct that connects the shroud to the air cleaner (parts stores have it, called "carburetor pre-heater hose"). But don't put this at the top of your priority list; the pre-'70 cars did not have thermostatic air cleaners.

I don't understand your battery terminal question — in the photos, they look like ordinary bolt-and-nut style battery cable terminals. You're not meant to remove the cable from the terminal, but rather remove the cable terminal from the battery. Loosen the nut, use a screwdriver to spread the legs of the cable terminal, and lift it off the battery lug. NEGATIVE FIRST, then positive.

Is there were a way of checking for the presence of the trans adaptor ring without dropping the trans or lifting the engine...I already answered.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My dad has recently moved, so I'm guessing that bracket is long gone...

About the battery terminals, I mean remove them from the cable in order to be replaced. I know how to remove them from the battery. =P

Welcome to the forum Harrison!

It looks like a fun project you have there. You've already found the best place in the world for on-line information on your vehicle.

North Carolina has a very good following of Slant Six folks! Do you know of a local car club you could join? You will often find people right next door that could help you get your hands dirty and be willing to show you the ropes.

To replace the cable end you have to cut it off with wire cutters and then strip a little of the cable coating for the new cable end to clamp to. The replacement clamp end will be designed to clamp onto the cable.

Keep us posted on how your project comes along!

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

There aren't any car clubs around her that I know of, but there is supposedly a junkyard run by a bunch of Mopar guys.

I figured that I would have to end up chopping off the ends. Thanks for clarifying that it was what was going to have to be done.

Congrats on the car Harrison! I never was a 'car guy' before but I've learned lots since I first bought my Valiant. The guys on here have helped me a great deal and like posted earlier, use the search on here because you can find tons of info. Like Dan said, buy the FSM, I went and bought mine for around $40 and its paid for itself each time I've opened it. One thing to remember is to proritize your repairs if not it can get overwelming as the list gets longer as you go. Take your time and have fun! -Dan

I am sure I have that missing radiator support bracket... send me a PM.

Just so you know, your car looks like a "never really got it running well after an engine swap and then abandoned" type of project.

I have picked-up a number of these projects over the years and the good news is, I usually have the car running well after a few days of work... that includes the brake system rebuild and a gas tank "drop & clean".

So it may look like a lot of work to you but in the right hands... getting your car going should not be that hard.
Finding some knowledgable Mopar people in your area and teaming-up with them is good advice.
DD

Sigh. Well, follow that link I provided above, and start scouring your local wrecking yards.

They're not meant to be removed from the cables; Rob's correct that you'd have to chop them off. If your terminals are in bad shape, it's best and easiest just to replace the cables complete. They're not very costly. But if you are bound and determined to put replacement terminals on the existing cables (and they'll still be long enough once you cut off the existing terminals) don't use those cheesy "strap and two bolts" terminals, which are really meant for temporary duty only, and cause reliability problems in long-term use. Instead, use the compression-fitting variety instead.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Two things one what ever you do dont try to pay somone else to do it unless you have know them a long time and they have owned old dodges before. I'm 16 as well and working on a 64 dart made that mistake still trying to fix it.

if you need a radiator I HIGHLY suggest doing what I did. Go to your favorite parts store and get a radiator for a 1976 dodge aspen with a /6 no A/C. Go to advance auto parts and tell them you want a hose (E)71713CS should look similar to your original but be alot longer cut it as needed. You then will have to cut and use rubber line to move the right side tranny cooler line this is not hard. The radiator will bolt right in after your lay your old one on it and drill two more holes in the flanges(aspen uses two bolts old darts/val's use four) You will also have to gently bend the flanges slightly to get a proper fan-radiator clearance but they are flexible

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64 dart GT /225
...........____ .
...._n_.[____].
..@\...\=| |....
....\.\...\ //....
.....L\....\......
.......\____\....

Got some pictures of the radiator today.








So, would you say that it's worth repairing, or should I just try for a replacement?

Can't say from here. It's pretty clean on the outside, which suggests no serious leaks, but it's the inside that really counts. Take it to a good radiator shop near you and get their assessment. Tell them you can get a replacement bracket (from Doc), and ask if the core's in good enough shape that just a boilout or rod-out will put it back in shape, or if a recore will be necessary. They can install the missing bracket as part of that work. Get some price quotes then decide.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Alright then, there's one maybe a mile away from me. I'll see if I can get mom to let me drive out there with it tomorrow (learners permit sucks).

What about where the fan was hitting it? Would adjusting the fan be covered in that service manual?

The fan is hitting because the bracket on that side is missing. When you accelerate, the fan sucks the radiator toward the engine.

No no, the car was last run before the bracket disappeared. I haven't run it ever since then.

Sloppy engine mounts will let the fan circle the radiator like that, but given the pattern I'm inclined to think that the bracket was detached from the radiator core (even if it was still bolted to the rad support panel at the front of the engine bay) and acceleration caused the right side of the rad to swing rearward and into the spinning fan.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The bracket is just soldered to the tanks.

With a torch, rather easy to repair (if you have the bracket)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes