I had a mechanic to replace my timing chain and he told me to replace my
harmonic balancer and distributor. I replaced my harmonic balancer and now I took my distributor out and put in the new one and now it won't turn over. I think my timings off is there some way to reset it?

Its a 1982 D-150

(1) Did the mechanic say why you needed a new harmonic balancer and distributor?

(2) When you say the motor won't turn over, do you mean you turn the key and nothing happens or you turn the key, the motor cranks, but the motor doesn't start?

I really hope you reinstalled the rotor pointed where the old one was, otherwise you will need to re-time the motor from scratch.

He said the both the harmonic balancer and distributor was wore out, thats all he said. I turn the key and the motor cranks but does not start.

How do I retime my motor?

Well, if this your first time, I would recommend allowing yourself at least a whole afternoon, if not an entire day.

(1) pull the valve cover

(2) rotate the motor by hand (that means turn the crank clockwise) as you watch the valves on the #1 piston. It is easier if all the spark plugs are out, but you don't have to pull them

(3) keep turning the motor over by hand until you see the #1 intake valve open and close. The #1 intake valve will be the intake valve closest towards you. You can tell it is an intake valve because it is directly in front of the intake manifold runner

(4) after the #1 intake valve has opened and closed, keep rotating the motor by hand until the timing mark on your vibration dampener lines up with the TDC (top dead center) mark on the timing tab. This will be true TDC (or close enough) on the #1 cylinder

(5) once the motor is at TDC on the #1 cylinder, take the distributor cap off the distributor. Before you remove the cap, note which "tower" on the distributor cap the spark plug wire for the #1 cylinder is plugged into.

(6) Remove the distributor cap and see where the rotor tip is pointed. It should be pointed close to directly underneath the plug tower that the #1 plug wire was hooked to. If it isn't:

(a) remove the distributor hold down bolt
(b) pull the distriubtor slowly out of the block. Note that the rotor turns roughly 30 degrees as the distributor is removed
(c) position the rotor so it is pointed roughly 30 degrees counter-clockwise from where the #1 plug tower will sit.
(d) return the distributor to the engine. As it is inserted, the rotor will rotate clockwise roughly 30 degrees. It should now be pointed under the #1 plug tower position, or reasonably close thereto. If it is not, rotate the distributor until it is.
(e) replace the holdown bolt and snug it down, but not so tight so you can't set the timing
(f) replace the distributor cap and try starting the motor. If the motor starts, set the timing and relax.

If the rotor was already pointed under the #1 plug tower, you should take the distributor out and have the pickup inside tested. Or, you can test it yourself with an ohm meter.

(7) once you have properly set the timing/veriied your distributor pickup is functioning, reassemble and start the motor and se the timing.

Good luck!

Thanks for the info I'm going to do it first thing tomorrow.

One thing I would suggest. Since the damper was changed, and we don't know what year damper was used, I would check and make sure the timing marks line up at tru top dead center.

Also before you do anything, make sure you have spark. Just because the distributor was changed, does not mean it is good. Even if the tining is off, you can still check for spark.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Just as a precaution the first step in Reed's list should be:


Set emergency brake, put block or chock under a wheel to keep vehicle from moving, and if a manual tranny vehicle put in neutral. It might also be prudent to remove the positive cable from the battery.

-D.Idiot

Yep- thanks for pointing those out Charlie and DI. Good points all. Sorry I forgot to mention them.

It's amazing how often this actually happens. This information should be handed out on a laminated sheet to every new slant six owner. When I first made this mistake (years and years ago) it took me two days to finally get it right since I had no one to bounce ideas off of and no written info at my disposal.

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Been there, done that. That's why I have this trick memorized. In fact, I used it yesterday to set the timing on my brother's Duster.

I've worked for a couple of hours before I noticed the rotor sitting on top of the battery or air cleaner. Some things are so dumb you just can't stop doing them.

Danny

Danny,

Just so you know you don't have a lock on the dumb award, I left the rotor lying out on the fender and wasted a few hours doing wiring tracing once. Even dumber, one time when doing a recurve I didn't get the dizzy mashed back together far enough and the rotor nearly ground a hole in the cap. The spring looked like a coil spring, not the flat contact for the center tap! And it happened faaaast.

rock
'64d100

Well I got that problem fix, thanks to the info that you all gave me. I do have another problem when it starts it idles around 1100 rpms then a few seconds later it advances really fast to over 3000 rpms to the point where I have to cut it off, any idea's?