I've got a '64 Valiant, Signet 200 with a 225 /6 that I can't seem to get to idle smoothly. Engine seems to run smooth down the road but not at idle. Would this be a jet or vacuum thing? I had the thick (1/2" ?) gasket on the carb. at first and noticed that there were vac. ports on the bottom of the carb. (Holley 1920) but none on the gasket. Then changed to the thin gasket thanks to SlantSixDan. Runs much better now but still can't seem to find good idle or a vac. leak using ether or carb. cleaner. Not sure what the difference between the thick and thin gaskets are but (now for the stupid question ) could I need both?

Also, does anyone know where to find the chrome trim for these cars. I had a niece trash the trim on the left rear wheel well and the strip in front of it.

Thanks in advance for you help
Jeff

The thick gasket (with correct vacuum notches and holes) is the better option. You don't need (or want) to use both. Whichever one you use, it has to be installed right way round and right side up. They're usually stamped "TOP FRONT" to help with placement.

Rough idle has many causes — it can be a problem within the carburetor itself, a vacuum leak anywhere along the intake tract (did you try aiming your carb spray at the junctions of the manifold runners to the cylinder head?). It can be ignition-related, too, and it can be caused by valves that are out of adjustment.

What's the status of your ignition system? What's the history on this carburetor? How long since this car had a good tune-up and valve adjustment?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I did use the carb. cleaner around all the intake runners at the head and around the carb. Just put this car together so everything is new except the block ( dist., carb, plugs, wires, filters,head reworked, etc..). The valve lash has been set and double checked while warm and running. Would you have the correct part number/mfg for the thick gasket with the correct vac. holes? I'd much rather try that first instead of changing the gasket on the in/ex runners. If it comes to changing the intake gasket do you recommend any type of high temp. sealer to use with the gasket?

Jeff

I already gave you the part number for the thick gasket with the correct holes. The reason why the thick gasket is preferable is that it does a better job of insulating the carb from heat. Thick vs. thin gasket will not affect your idle.

When you say the carburetor and distributor are new, do you really mean new, or are they "remanufactured" items from a parts store? Reman carburetors very seldom work well, and reman distributors are only somewhat less awful by dint of having fewer critical parts. Carburetor operation and repair manuals (and some training movies) are posted here for free download.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Sorry Dan. Didn't know that was for the thick gasket. Called the parts store and they said they had one. Showed up and it was the thin one but it had the holes for vac. so I didn't question it. And yes the parts are reman.'s. Thanks for the info.

Well, maybe you got the thick gasket without realising it! The thin one is 1/8", and the thick one is 3/8".

"Remanufactured" carburetors and (to a somewhat lesser extent) distributors often cause the car to run poorly.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I don't think so. I took a thick off and replaced it with a thin because the thick didn't have the holes for the vacuum. Ordered the thick one last night.