Does anyone have any suggestions I have a violent wheel hop problem on my 86 ram. once out of first gear it can spin the tires into smoke with no shudder. But from a dead stop up to about 10mph if it spins its so violent that when it happens if I don't get out of it immediatly I will break an axle (happened before with only 1 sec of hop)I have a pinion snubber which helped. should I install more springs? any help would be appreciated. Nick

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Nick
86 d150 turbo /6.
64 valiant 4 door

Traction bars are the cheapest way out. Cal-Tracs are more expensive, but work better. The GM torque arm system used on the '83 and later GM F-bodies works well too, but requires fabrication. To get a pinion snubber to do the same job it often has to be pre-loaded and/or very strong. I'd try traction bars first.

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Joshua

How far away is your pinion snubber from hitting and is the contact area heavy duty enough. You must have made a bracket of some sort.

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10.74 @ 127.47 mph 1320 ft
6.65 @ 107.80 mph 660 ft

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the snubber is against when I race and the bracket is angle iron.The ford 9" also has a cast shroud that protrudes over the u joint,which I am using as the bump point. The snubber is a 3" tall urethane suspension travel stop.

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Nick
86 d150 turbo /6.
64 valiant 4 door

Is the pinion angle causing this? You have the stock pickup springs?

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I don't think I would have tried using that cast iron shroud to prevent spring wrap. If your bumper were shorter and stouter I think you stand a good chance of breaking that little casting. I feel that traction bars that are long enough to put the bumper right under the front spring eye are your best best without spending a lot of money.

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Joshua

How far away is the snubber when resting. I'd say 1/2 - 1" works good.

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10.74 @ 127.47 mph 1320 ft
6.65 @ 107.80 mph 660 ft

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Just my opinion, but you'd be better off to throw the pinion snubber away and put on a cheap pair of Lakewood clamp on traction bars.

Pinion snubbers only work with a really stiff spring like a SS spring or something of that nature, and it is still a band-aid on a bullet wound at best.

A snubber can still let the springs work independently, whereas a set of Lakewood bars shimmed properly will not.

You can also try clamping the front half of the springs so the leaves will not separate and leave the snubber on.

My '66 left just as hard on 8" ET Streets, Lakewood bars, and stock springs/shocks as Mike Jeffrey's '68 did with ladder bars/coilovers and 12" slicks.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

What about adding a leaf to the front and clamping them?

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

thanks for the advice everyone!

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Nick
86 d150 turbo /6.
64 valiant 4 door

I built a track bar after much debate and plan on incorperating the drive shaft loop in with it. Here are some pictures. It seems to work well

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Nick
86 d150 turbo /6.
64 valiant 4 door

I thought torque arm like that would be pretty easy to do on an 8 3/4 or a 9" without welding to the housing as long as one had access to a lathe. I would make tube nuts to replace a few of the common nuts that hold the 3rd member to the housing and bolt the torque arm to the tube nuts. The 3rd member would then act as a housing reinforcement and load spreader.

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Joshua

How big of a Lathe? Fopar and I both have lathes...

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

To make the tube nuts you'd only need to turn 3/4" round stock. My friend Bob who's only about one hour from me has a lathe and also a mill with an indexing rotary table which is great for putting the hex on the nuts. We made some for my valve covers and wire looms.

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Joshua

An hour is a bit less. Yes.

I wish I had an indexing table!

Looks good Turboram!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing