...without removing the rods and pistons.

To remove the crank I removed the rod nuts and knocked the rod bolts into the crankcase with my air chisel. This make the rod caps very easy to remove and kept the threads away from the bearing journals. The crank came out easily.



Here's a shot to show why the pistons were not removed. Nice pitting.



The junk block.



The free crank that was just liberated next to my good BH block that previously donated it's rods and crank to a freshly machined 198 block.



Now I have to decide if I want to go cheap and use 225 rods and stock pistons or go K1 rods and Weisco or full custom pistons.

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Joshua

Well, you could always use a air hammer/chisel to rescue the rods from their current prison, and save a $$ or two. I don't think the pistons would mind too much...

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An officialis Tyrde-Browne Racing membrum

The last slant six crank I removed, I only removed the oil pan, front cover, timing chain, & main caps and left the rest of the engine together.
I didn't even have to knock out the rod bolts.
Of course my engine was able to rotate so i could get at each nuy off the rod bolts and then simply slid each piston/con rod assembly up into the cylinder bore and the crank came right out.

That engine came in a 1972 Dodge Demon I bought and parted out. It was an original 198 slant car, so I pulled the engine and it came out so fast I didn't notice it was a 225 until afterwards!
Damn!
Oh well, an extra crank I guess.

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1969-1/2 Dodge Super Bee A12 (440 Six Pack, 4-spd, Dana 60)
1974 Plymouth Duster 360 (4-spd, 8.75")
1973 Plymouth Duster (225, auto, 8.25")
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 QC 2wd (5.9L, auto, Dana 60)