I did a bit of a launch on a back road after converting the Carter back to a 600 CFM, got home to do a "Hot" idle mixture adjustment, and couldn't open the hood. Again. Just like at MATS.

I'm thinking the body is twisting up front. I have subframe connectors, but they don't seem to be doing their job. Any tips? The hood is too close to the cowl again. I suppose the front support may have shifted, pushing the hood back.

I'll experiment putting the Valiant in traction tomorrow to see if it will relax the seam so I can get it open. I have fender braces, so perhaps a bit of adjustment then tightening there will help. :shrug:

Oh, by the way, the engine doesn't spin up any tighter than it did with the 500CFM, but the mixture runs dead on. The A/F gauge was dead center in all modes on the carburetor. I put fresh 8"HG Springs under the metering rod pistons. Hardly any lean bobble coming off WOT.
Looks like it's time to get a more serious cam in there. The engine just ends at 4500 RPM.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Me thinks you are at the end of the cam. Need a better/bigger one. You have reached the end of it's flow capacity.

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An officialis Tyrde-Browne Racing membrum

You is right.

My head is set up to take up to .500 inch, but I don't think I want to get that radical. Perhaps the 270 Erson. I've got a High Flow AM, but I'd have to rework everything and deal with valve/piston/wall clearances again. Too late in the season for that foolishness.

I'm going to run the car out in the 16's this year, then I'll pull it this winter for rings and a fresh cam choice.

Unfortunately, with all the rust and other trouble, I may just keep going and find it stuffed in the '63 GT by next spring. Never know.
The Hooptie will be relegated to street car duty with a one barrel arrangement pretty soon.

CJ

PS: The hood is still stuck.

Yeah, just running your build on Desktop Dyno with an Erson 270 with the .465 lift and the right tweaks netted a nice fat 270 ft/lbs of torque
and a nice powerband right down the mid range... guess you'll have to pull the hood hinges and run hood pins from now on....



-D.Idiot

I could make a crack about CJ needing a new body, but...

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Joshua

The evil voice from Yacolt!

I'm on a diet. I'm sensitive about my weight. Real sensitive. I'm going to cry now.

Well, that's out of my system! Car by Plymouth, body by Haagen-Dazs!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Even a stock cam should twist higher than 4500. What you got in there for valve springs?

.500 lift is still a stock cam in my world.

How much rust is in that car Ceej? There is no way that a car with subframe connectors should twist enough to jam the hood. I've been 12.0's in my turd '66 w/o connectors and did not have that problem, and my floor is all sheetmetal.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Agreed

On Rust:

A Lot. I've reached the point in the trunk that there's question as to what exactly is holding the fuel tank straps. The seam around the trunk is pretty much gone on both sides and the front of the spare tire well. The bottom of the well has a large hole in it, and the anchor points don't appear to be attached to anything.
The rear quarters are rusted through in the bottom. The bottoms of the doors are in rough shape.
Fortunately, it doesn't have problems around the A-arms. I need to inspect things again. It really went down hill this last year.

CJ

Aha! It wasn't the car twisting! It was the hood heat soaking and swelling up!

I went out and opened the hood a few minutes ago. All cooled off!

I ordered a DEI kit to wrap the head pipes. They are appartently putting a bunch more heat into the engine compartment. Makes sense.

I need the Emoticon that smacks it's forehead.

Doh!

CJ

Tell me how that exhaust wrap turns out. I got the manifolds surfaced, and was considering a coating. I threw it out the window cause there wasn't a clear victor among ratings at Eastwood. However, I'm postponed for another weekend till the cam gets here. I went with the 270/266 .47 Lift combo.

I've done wrap on headers before. It does an excellent job of knocking down heat in the engine compartment. I'll be wrapping the two head pipes coming off my Dual Dutra Duals. They're big buggers. Shoulda known!

There are a lot of options these days! Different composite materials are now available than when I last looked ten years ago. I settled on the black DEI 2" wrap. The other ones seemed a bit gimmick driven. Probably work great though.

I'll do an update on the effectiveness in this application.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

CJ,

I don’t have one of those cars to look at but you should be able to adjust that problem out of your hood. It sounds like everything is pushed toward the cowl too much. Even if it’s heat, you can move the hood forward so that it doesn’t jam up on anything when it expands.

The first thing is to make sure the latch isn’t the only thing wrong and is pushing the hood rearward as it latches.

Then adjust the hood forward a little bit. Sometimes it helps to remove the latch so you can get an un-hindered easy view of where the hood is when it’s closed. Then adjust, shim or bend the latch to match the new position of the hood.

It may only need a little bit. It may only need the latch shimmed or adjusted forward.

Danny

Appreciate it. My hood is glass, and is all the way forward. Huge gap.
I don't have a latch. It's pinned down up front.

I don't think a steel hood would grow enough heat soaked to get stuck.



CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Ahhh, I see now.

I didn’t think it could expand that much either.