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 Post subject: vacuume removal
PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 4:13 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 5:07 pm
Posts: 154
Location: Pennsylvania
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Hi, I was wondering what all vacuume lines I can remove on my engine? I know I need vacuume advance line, carb to choke line, but what all can i remove without compromising my engine? Can I plug the small line that comes off of the brake booster or will that mess it up? Also, can I plug the line that is right next to the coolent sensor? What exactly is that for?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 4:22 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13280
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
There should be a map of the vacuum hoses under your hood. The vacuum line to the brake booster is required for the power brakes to work. You need the vacuum advance to the distributor, the PCV, the choke pulloff, and possibly the charcoal cannister.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 4:24 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
Posts: 1547
Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model: 1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Why do you want to pull all of that stuff off? Is something malfunctioning?

Taking the line off the brake booster will make those brakes rock hard to push...

~THOR~

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 4:45 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 5:07 pm
Posts: 154
Location: Pennsylvania
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nothings malfunctioning, I just want the engine bay to look cleaner. Vacuume lines running everywhere is kinda crappy looking. I know most of the vacuum lines are needed.


Well, there is something that is going wrong. All of my vaccum lines are running to the right spot, but if I sit there and pump my brakes up i can hear a popping sound in my exhaust. Once I let off of the brakes it stops. It has a new master cylinder on it, but the brake booster is origonal. When I replaced the master cylinder, I didnt notice anything leaking out of the booster, and the rod looked alright. A little rusty, but decent looking. Do you guys think my brake booster could be faulty causing it to suck air in or something? It did this before I replaced the master cylinder too, but I didnt replace it because of that. I was replacing all of the lines/brakes and wanted the master cylinder to be new as well.


Well, I guess does anyone know a good way to hide all of those vacuum lines?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 6:15 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13280
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Do you have a vacum gause installed? If so, what is your idle vacuum reading? There isn't any real way to hide the hoses.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 6:31 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 5:07 pm
Posts: 154
Location: Pennsylvania
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no vacuum gauge installed. I should probably get one though..

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:58 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24805
Location: North America
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Quote:
nothings malfunctioning, I just want the engine bay to look cleaner. Vacuume lines running everywhere is kinda crappy looking. I know most of the vacuum lines are needed.
Uh..yeah, kinda gimme a break and stuff, eh? The more random parts you remove, the "cleaner" you may think your engine bay looks. Keep at it and there'll be nothing left in the engine bay and it'll look super ultra mega "clean". What's the point of this exercise?
Quote:
All of my vaccum lines are running to the right spot, but if I sit there and pump my brakes up i can hear a popping sound in my exhaust.
Yup, if you sit there pumping the brakes, you'll be letting a whackload of air into #6 cylinder, causing that cylinder to run super lean and misfire. Do you have to pump the brakes to make them work...?
Quote:
Well, I guess does anyone know a good way to hide all of those vacuum lines?
If you gotta-just-gotta, then bend up some shiny metal hardlines with straight runs and neat 90° and 45° bends, and connect them at ends with short lengths of silver, red, or blue silicone vacuum hose. Is it really worth the effort...?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 2:20 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2005 8:29 pm
Posts: 797
Location: Raleigh, NC
Car Model:
Mister Perkins,

Now that you have introduced yourself to a new truck, sell it and get a swepty (1960's sweptline series). Nothing to hide because there is nothing there. NOW you can work to your heart's content on the same engine with enough room to sit on fenders and work inside. Better trucks for my money too. Take your fist and hit a swepty fender and listen to the thud. Then hit the new stuff...all tin. (Don't hit it too hard or it will dent).

Half kidding you, but the bare bones approach of the sweptline makes it much more tweakable, and there are no funny parts to try to get and no funny ignition. Look at the pic of mine...it is now a show truck that gets out and runs ever now and then.

rock
'64d100


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 6:12 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:36 pm
Posts: 2432
Location: East Arkansas
Car Model:
Rock
You have a PM
Frank

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 1:27 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 5:07 pm
Posts: 154
Location: Pennsylvania
Car Model:
Good idea dan. I think I might do that. I am trying to make the engine bay look tidy. I think that the metal tubing approach might be a good idea. I'll just run all of the vacuum lines inside of it. Thanks for the idea. Well, the main reason why wanted to do this is because I am going to be pulling the /6 out soon and rebuilding it top to bottom. Painting the engine, re-installing it. Also am going to repaint the entire truck off frame restoration. Doesnt need any fixing, just want to scale the frame, sand blast it, powdercoat it and reinstall everything.

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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3257131p


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 3:12 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Car Model:
Mister_Perkins,

You have a PM.

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