Actually that's part of why your going to need the larger value. When you start pushing on the pedal, the vacuum goes south in a hurry. You have to beat it to the punch to keep the mixture from going lean.

If you were drag racing, it wouldn't matter. A near Zero vacuum at WOT except when on the brakes. When you need a smooth transition to power with small changes at the pedal, you need to bring the mixture rich earlier.

Don't mess with the 8.5 PV, go straight to a 10.5. Your going to have a minimum 17" HG on idle, unless something has been changed in there. Anything less than 19" HG isn't healthy.

What jets were in the primary?

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I read your post AFTER I finished. Like an ass, I didn't think to look.
That's two days in a row I meant to look. Monday night when I got home from Work we pulled the carb. took off the Bowl and was hoping to see a glob of something come out. I should have looked at the Jet # when I took them off and sprayed them. I can look with the Carb on the car so No biggy. I'll post back when I have some details

You are proposing to go smaller on the jets for all around better gas mileage but a quick kick in the ass when accelerating by using a higher vacuum PV?

Thanks again

_________________
1970 Valiant.. my sons Daily Driver
1975 CJ5, fiberglass body,350/345Hp chevy
1985 chevy stepside pickup, Original Owner
1989 Volvo 240: Original Owner
OTHER TOYS: http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Refresh: Holley 4160-8007 4 barrel
Replaced a blown Power Valve.

The Power valve was the flooding/Vacuum issue for sure.
After changing the Valve the car is happy... with one exception.

What would make gas leak into the Intake manifold after turning the car off?
The gaskets at the Bowl and Metering Block came off clean so I reused them.. Could they cause a leak INTO the carb and down the manifold?

With the car warmed up, Turn it off and look at the barrels you see steaming/ vapor and the smell of gas.
What kind of confirms this leaking into the manifold is .. The car starts up great first thing in the morning. It also starts great after driving and restarting about 1 hour later. It's the quick shut off and restarts that the car has a very hard time starting...like it's flooded.
Yes the gasket was put on the Power valve when we installed it. We changed nothing else so i'm thinking maybe gasket at the Metering Block but I don't know enough to say that gasket could cause a leak down.

_________________
1970 Valiant.. my sons Daily Driver
1975 CJ5, fiberglass body,350/345Hp chevy
1985 chevy stepside pickup, Original Owner
1989 Volvo 240: Original Owner
OTHER TOYS: http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Boiling fuel off from the bowls is fairly common at shutdown. Gasoline will boil below 100°F
Any raw gasoline in the plenum will look like a fog due to heat.

Look into a phenolic spacer. Some folks have had luck with them.

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Prior to teh Power Valve being replaced, the car would start with just the tap of the key after it was warmed up. Now it appears to flood and the Pedal has to be held down to clear it so it starts.
Even though this carb was never set up correctly , this is a new issue.
I understand the boil off but It should be happening when the car was running and then just turned off.
I didn't mess with Float hieght I ddn't do anything other than switch oyt the PV.
Something I did notice while we looked at this quick shutoff flooding was Vacuum. It seems that the most vacuum ( about 19) is when I have the adjustment screws about 1/4 turn out. It's always been like that.

_________________
1970 Valiant.. my sons Daily Driver
1975 CJ5, fiberglass body,350/345Hp chevy
1985 chevy stepside pickup, Original Owner
1989 Volvo 240: Original Owner
OTHER TOYS: http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

The inlet needle and seat could be leaking.

Danny

This is the Needle valve that the Float closes??
Like, if the Float was adjusted too high, would it do the same thing?
Maybe when I took teh bowl off and layed it on it's side to replace the PV something got shifted so it doesn't close right? I can't imaging that but it's worth a look.

_________________
1970 Valiant.. my sons Daily Driver
1975 CJ5, fiberglass body,350/345Hp chevy
1985 chevy stepside pickup, Original Owner
1989 Volvo 240: Original Owner
OTHER TOYS: http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

That’s the one. I was thinking more that it just got old and stopped sealing or got some crud on it but jangling it around probably wouldn’t help much either.

Looking at it probably won’t tell you much unless it has a big chunk torn out of the end or something. If the carburetor leaks into the manifold after shut down, on a cold engine, and stops about the time the pressure is gone from the fuel line, would be a pretty good indication.

Danny

Even though the 'fog' was coming up from the Primary side, We had time to look at it last night. as soon as you turn the engine off, the Butterflies on the secondary side got wet. After taking off the secondary side bowl and seeing nothing obvious, I grabbed a can of carb cleaner and spray any orifice I could find. One of the 4 air intakes by the Pump Discharge Nozzle ( Squirters) was plugged.
That stupid little clog must have created vacuum or pressure enough to cause this problem, Blew it clear , put the bowl back on and we are good to go.

Thanks for hanging with me

_________________
1970 Valiant.. my sons Daily Driver
1975 CJ5, fiberglass body,350/345Hp chevy
1985 chevy stepside pickup, Original Owner
1989 Volvo 240: Original Owner
OTHER TOYS: http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm