So here's the deal, I finally tracked down an electrical short that had killed my signals and reverse lights on my '73 Dart. The same day I also went ahead and put in new plugs and wires - ever since then the car randomly stalls without warning. Engine is a 225 slant 6.
I can be cruising down the road and suddenly the car just turns off. For the most part I can fire it right back up again and go about my business, but it's still a pain.

Anyone have any ideas?

Welcome on the board. What year and model is your car? How many miles are on it? California or rest-of-America car? Automatic or manual transmission? What recent work has been done on it?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Totally forgot to mention that.

1973 Dodge Dart Custom with a 225. It's a rest-of-America car. Automatic. About 78k miles on it.

No other recent work aside from what I mentioned.

Thanks for the welcome!

Try a different electronic ignition ECU and check all the connections to it.
DD

Thanks for the advice! I'll get under the hood soon and let you know what I find out.

Well I replaced the ECU and checked some connections. So far it hasn't randomly stalled. Let's hope this trend continues.

Related or not, the car has been very temperamental about starting. This is a fairly recent development (last month and a half). In the past when the engine was cold I'd pump the gas twice then fire it up no problems. Now if I pump it twice it floods. If I pump it once, sometimes it will fire, sometimes not.

Also possibly related - where can I snag another vacuum amplifier?? The local O'Reilly's doesn't even have them listed.

Deepfriedogre:
How has your fuel mileage been lately? Dose the engine compartment smell of fuel after shut-down? Is there leaking fuel around, or in the carburetor after shut-down? Is there a hesitation when accelerating?

One should not need to pump to start, just depress the accelerator 1/4 to fully set the choke and release for a cold start, or 1/4 throttle for a warm start.

Check how well the choke is working after an overnight cool down, and adjust as needed per FM. If the choke is closing as it should, that is, a slight throttle opening will allow the choke to close snugly with vigor, and allow the high idle cam to be fully set at the same time. When engine starts, the choke should pull off from closed by about the thickness of a pencil. And, continue to open as the car warms to temperature. If it doesn't pull off at start, check for a vacuum leak at the choke pull-off diaphragm, and replace it.

If the choke is operating as it should, then check the float level setting, if your level is correct, and there is excess fuel leaking internally it is time for a carburetor rebuild.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

In truth I don't know about the mileage - I don't make it a point to check since it's gotta be bad - all I do is drive to and from work with it which is all in-town 20-30 mph with lots of stop signs. Sometimes on acceleration there it bogs down for a sec, then accelerates. Sometimes.
Only depressing the pedal 1/4 of the way is not enough to get it to fire up - never has been. 1/2 - full pump is enough though. When it's warm I can usually get away with not pumping it at all, just bump the starter and it fires right up.


I'll check the choke operation as soon as I can and check the float level setting. Not sure when I'll have time, but I will do it.

Anyone have any idea where to snag another vacuum amplifier? I think it is supposed to connect to the venturi, intake manifold, and egr, but I think it has a fourth port on it and I'm not sure where it hooks up. When I got the car many vacuum parts were missing or rotted away. It's bypassed now like a christmas tree which I suspect could be at fault for it's misbehaving.
I'm pretty sure I need that hockey puck though - finding one seems to be a chore though.