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Dan, I seriously looked at fuel injection. I even bought an aluminum manfold to try fabbing one up. I decided that I would be better off getting the engine rebuild done and running well, and to look at fuel injection again later. TWM Induction makes a DCOE type throttle body that might be sweet on a triple weber manifold... I would also much rather have a solution that doesn't force me to raise the doghouse.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but from what I've read, I don't think fuel injection will give me much HP or torque gains over a well tuned Weber 38DGES. I have access to a portable wide-band AFR data-logger (innovate LM-1) that we will use to jet/tune the carb.

I'm still open to to fuel injection or any other solution that meets my goals.

Thanks again, please keep the ideas coming!

-Moose

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1966 Clark Cortez, Industrial /6

Wow, more replies came in while I was typing!

Lou, your suggestion pretty much takes me back to my original plan. I already have engnbldr oversized valves, and will have the porting and unshrouding work done to the head, as well as a three angle grind. Although I'd love to have Doc or Mike J do the headwork, realistically I'll probably just get it done locally.

I also already have NOS 225 rods and new ARP rod bolts and main studs. I have Clevite .060 over pistons and moly rings. I will have the rotating assembly balanced.

I have a new MP244 cam, but will probably look to one of the new RDP cam grinds.

I'll keep the crank scraper, but lose the 340 valve springs.

I shoot for a compression ration between 8.5 & 9:1.

The block and head will get Doc's oiling improvements. If Doc agrees i should, I'll buy one of his blueprinted oil pumps. I was also planning to use Evans NPG+ coolant. I have an electric fan. This should take care of oiling and cooling issues.

Short of spending the money for crank stroking, this still seems like the way to go.

Thank you,

-Moose

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1966 Clark Cortez, Industrial /6

I did a great deal of research on the NPG+ (search this site for "waterless" by poster slantsixdan) and had extremely good results with it in my truck.

I do still think engine management (fuel + spark, such as SDS or somesuch) would give a substantial enough benefit over any carburetor, no matter how carefully tuned, to be worth the money. But you're right, it would definitely entail fabrication and a learning/teaching curve.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I wonder if a carb and some kind of computer controlled ignition would be worth doing?

I just don't know what kind of difference it would make... I am just throwing it out there.

As far as computer controlled ignition, I have an MSD 6a and electronic distributor that I was already using on this engine. I also have an MSD programmable timing computer that I haven't installed yet. With a locked out mech. advance, the timing computer will allow me to precisely set 20* of mechanical advance to ramp in wherever I want. Then I just have to choose the right vac pod.

I don't know of much else out there in the form of engine mgmt, other than expensive systems like SDS, or systems like MegaSquirt which require a higher learning curve. I guess that's a subject I'll have to try to find more on.

Thanks Dan, I actually learned about the NPG+ coolant from your write-up. Cool stuff!

Thanks again for all the advice

-Moose

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1966 Clark Cortez, Industrial /6

I might go for EFI/ign computer later, but after you have a well sorted combo. It is non-trivial to get these running well, even for an expert.

Also, from what I have seen, the Weber DGES is touch and go as far as working well on a Slant. Usually I don't like Holleys, but the 350 and 500 2bbls w/ elec choke work so well, and are so simple, that I really recommend them for power, mileage, drivability, etc.

You might ask Doc if there's a head place he has experience with in the LA area. I think there's a place in Monrovia they used when he did a buildup with Steve Magnante (Hot Rod mag) that did nice headwork?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Ali,s machine shop in Signal Hill,Mark

lou i like what you are saying,moose it seem like you have a combo of parts and machining that you need i will add ,keep the 340 springs you are going to need more seat pressure to control the valve with a bigger cam,the 244 mp cam i would swap for a RDP like lou suggested, as for the head porting and pocketing, the 3angle job is good just open up the pocket as evenly as possible to the middle of the last cut right under the valve seat and smooth everything right back to the port opening, even the guide boss.stick with stock crank/rods/piston 0.060 and it should be in the ball park for you with some fine tuning.